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oil seep at base of the barrels, case

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    oil seep at base of the barrels, case

    Any success in stoping the oil seep at the base of the cylinder barrells at the case without lifting it all and the crazy gasket search it would entail?
    BTW its a gs1100e.
    Thanks in advance.

    #2
    Almost certainly you'll have to pull the top end off and pop in new gaskets. Just double check where the oil leak is coming from before you make a start - might be spraying from somewhere else (unlikely but not impossible).
    79 GS1000S
    79 GS1000S (another one)
    80 GSX750
    80 GS550
    80 CB650 cafe racer
    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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      #3
      As HH said, the only real fix is to fix it. Those gaskets aren't hard to find at all. I've been searching ebay for 1100E parts, and base gaskets are everywhere, plus most of the big parts sellers have them. That being said, depending on the mileage, if I was gonna go to THAT much trouble I'd probably consider a ring job as well.

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        #4
        Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
        ...if I was gonna go to THAT much trouble I'd probably consider a ring job as well.
        YUP, what he said, unless it has very low miles. Check compression first.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
          YUP, what he said, unless it has very low miles. Check compression first.
          Like under 100,000 miles.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #6
            you're right

            I was looking for a "the third bolt from the end loosens and just needs to be cleaned and sealed" kind of excuse, but the advice here helps point me to a solution rather than more "fixit" questions here. Experience pays dividends. Thanks

            i have the engine out and am doing the winter fresh'n it up, paint cleanning etc. So I will be adjusting the valves, sealing the cam chain adjuster leak, the exhaust leak, the valve cover leak(s), the shift sending wiring seal leak, the tach seal-leak. ummm i hope i get it all.

            i'm also way the heck in the boonies and the local isn't quite so local especialy the way they look at you when you ask for anything other than a new snowmobile.

            Oh ya, 56,000 kms on the bike with header and stock jets so a valve inspect is warrented i suspect.

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              #7
              Again, this is just me, and I tend to overdo things, but with THAT many leaks, and the engine off the bike, I'd buy a complete gasket set for about $70, and do pretty much everything.

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                #8
                That's a time consuming but easy task.
                Wait till you have to do this
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #9
                  I'm about to do it for the first time Bill. Took the G down to that point, but didn't split the cases. Gonna pull the crank on the E, check for true and weld if not welded.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
                    I'm about to do it for the first time Bill. Took the G down to that point, but didn't split the cases. Gonna pull the crank on the E, check for true and weld if not welded.
                    You can tell if it's welded by taking off the charging rotor and measuring the end taper. 22mm is a big end and if it measures that it is welded.
                    You need to get a good puller though.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                      You can tell if it's welded by taking off the charging rotor and measuring the end taper. 22mm is a big end and if it measures that it is welded.
                      You need to get a good puller though.
                      Good tip, thanks. I see the pullers pop up on ebay. Guess if I am committed to this bike I might as well grab one.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
                        Good tip, thanks. I see the pullers pop up on ebay. Guess if I am committed to this bike I might as well grab one.
                        That tends to happen with toys that one really likes. Just "keep buy'n the tools/parts" to make them purrrrrrrfect.

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