-Theo
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Stuck on slide #25 in Carb Rebuild Series
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Theo
Stuck on slide #25 in Carb Rebuild Series
Ok, so I'm following the carb rebuild series that basscliff links to and I am stuck on slide #25. It says to remove the air screw but I can't see how. On my carbs, in the spot where the air screw should be, there is a circle with a tiny hole in the middle. Hopefully this is not a really dumb question.. Thanks
-Theo
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waterman
That tiny hole is in the plug that is covering the screw. This is an aluminum plug that was factory installed to prevent someone from tampering with the mixture screw and thus not mess with the emissions of the bike. You want to remove the plug by carefully drilling through the plug with a small drill bit but only to a depth of 1/4" or so, too far and you will drill into the screw itself. Once you have drilled a hole into plug, insert a nail, woodscrew, or small screwdriver and lever the plug out of hole. Then you will discover pleasure of removing screw which is nearly cemented in place.
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Theo
Thanks for the help. I found the screws you spoke so highly of. Now I'm really stuck. The screws on carbs 1 & 3 came out like nothing, but I think I've killed 2 and will probably soon kill 4. Are there any tricks to getting them out without destroying them?
Edit: So I was looking online to see if I could replace these and from what I can tell, they don't sell replacements for these. So if I mess these up I'm ****ed.Last edited by Guest; 12-12-2009, 03:49 PM.
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gearhead13
some kind of penetrating oil like wd40?? let them soak and soak until you dont have to force them. If you force them they will break off or otherwise become stuck
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Theo
I sprayed them with brake cleaner (that's all I have at the moment) and letting that soak in for the moment. My question, if I am unable to get these out without ruining them, do they sell replacements or no? I wonder if I could find a suitable bit for my impact driver to get these out.
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gearhead13
Originally posted by Theo View PostI sprayed them with brake cleaner (that's all I have at the moment) and letting that soak in for the moment. My question, if I am unable to get these out without ruining them, do they sell replacements or no? I wonder if I could find a suitable bit for my impact driver to get these out.
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Theo
Ahhh...patience is something I don't have, but I'll try this time. So I'm going to head out to get some WD40 and a proper fitting screwdriver. How long do you thing I should let it soak? All night? I have a really bad feeling that this is not going to end well. I found a set of carbs off of a 1983 gs500E, do these use the same type of screw? Thanks for all of the help so far.
-Theo
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Send them to me. I'll get them out
If you sell parts or provide services for GS series motorcycles, place a description of it in this forum.
Shameless plug
Get a torch and heat the carb body outside the screw area. Make sure everything else is removed.
If the screw head is beyond help get a Dremmel and cut the hole off over the screw and cut a notch into the screw head.
I've done this many times and it does not mess up the body unless you break it or run the cutting blade into the carb throat.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Theo
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostSend them to me. I'll get them out
If you sell parts or provide services for GS series motorcycles, place a description of it in this forum.
Shameless plug
Get a torch and heat the carb body outside the screw area. Make sure everything else is removed.
If the screw head is beyond help get a Dremmel and cut the hole off over the screw and cut a notch into the screw head.
I've done this many times and it does not mess up the body unless you break it or run the cutting blade into the carb throat.
-Theo
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Originally posted by Theo View PostWell thanks for help, I'm going to try those ideas out now. Just to be clear, if I go the dremel route and don't mess anything up, I can reuse both the screw and the body without any problems? Also, just in case this doesn't work out, can you pm me what it would cost for you to get these screws out and possibly replace? Thanks so much.
-Theo1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Theo
So where should I send the thank you card Chef1366. I used the torch (lighter actually) to get them out as far as possible and then used a dremel to cut a deeper slot into the screw. So now all are out and I can continue. I sure hope that's the hardest part of the rebuild. Man I am so happy I can kiss you.
-Theo
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Originally posted by Theo View Post
So where should I send the thank you card Chef1366. I used the torch (lighter actually) to get them out as far as possible and then used a dremel to cut a deeper slot into the screw. So now all are out and I can continue. I sure hope that's the hardest part of the rebuild. Man I am so happy I can kiss you.
-Theo
You can send money though!1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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