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Busted bolt GS750

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    #16
    Using one of the exhaust flanges trace a template and mark the holes. Transfer that to a decent thickness (1/2" - 3/4") of steel. Carefully drill the holes on location thru the steel the same size as the tap drill for the bolts. (if you give me the bolt size I can give you the correct drill size.) Now bolt the jig you just built to the head with the 1 remaining good bolt and carefully drill the broken bolt out using the hole in the jig to keep you aligned. You should then be able to clean out the threads and be good to go. May have to chase the threads with a tap.

    To figure the correct size drill for a tap:
    major diameter-1 thread pitch, example M8 x 1.25 would be 8-1.25 or 6.75mm drill. Works the same for standard sizes also. 3/8"-16 would be .375- (1/16) or .375-.0625 = .3125"

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      #17
      I did the same thing on my 1100.I removed the head and took it to my local machine shop.They drilled it out and put in a helicoil.Worked great and it only cost me $60.00.

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        #18
        Originally posted by new bob View Post
        I did the same thing on my 1100.I removed the head and took it to my local machine shop.They drilled it out and put in a helicoil.Worked great and it only cost me $60.00.


        I had one broken off by the PO. He had drilled it out and so I let it soak with PBB and tried an extractor. Well I ended up with a broken F'n extractor so off came the head and over to a machine shop. It ended up costing me $80 there, plus gaskets and new oil seals (because you might as well while you're in there right?) and so now it is fine with a heli-coil. If that ever comes out i might look into having it welded and re drilled.


        NEVER FORGET ANTI-SIEZE though! The copper based kind works great. You know it's copper if it looks like copper. It should also say too lol!

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          #19
          Originally posted by mighty13d View Post
          I had one broken off by the PO. He had drilled it out and so I let it soak with PBB and tried an extractor. Well I ended up with a broken F'n extractor so off came the head and over to a machine shop. It ended up costing me $80 there, plus gaskets and new oil seals (because you might as well while you're in there right?) and so now it is fine with a heli-coil. If that ever comes out i might look into having it welded and re drilled.


          NEVER FORGET ANTI-SIEZE though! The copper based kind works great. You know it's copper if it looks like copper. It should also say too lol!
          Oh yea.I replaced all the gaskets too.The head gasket alone was $70.00.The whole deal cost about $200.00 I got everything from bike bandit.

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            #20
            Broken Extractor

            Well, it's gotten worse. I drilled it out, and broke off the extractor. Machine shop, or new cylinder head are my only options now. So, do I have to remove the engine from the frame to take off the cylinder head? My shop manuel says I don't have to, but the clearance with the frame looks pretty tight as you lift the head over the long bolts. I"ve read through the manuel about how to remove the head. To me, it looks pretty tough, because I'm concerned I'll screw something up further. It seems that one problem usually opens up a new "can of worms". So I guess I'm looking at a couple hundred, and more experience.

            Scudder

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              #21
              You do not have to remove engine from frame to remove head. There is plenty of clearance to do this. I have done it both ways and I like removing engine since I can then work on a bench instead of bending over all the time. It is more work and can be a PITA getting engine in and out of frame without smashing fingers. Friends are nice to have for these tasks.

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                #22
                I will have to take the camshaft cover off and disassemble the camshafts etc. Right? Manual says to do it. Probably a silly question, but I'm just trying to keep as much as I can intact, so I will have less issues. Thanks.

                Scudder

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Scudder View Post
                  I will have to take the camshaft cover off and disassemble the camshafts etc. Right? Manual says to do it. Probably a silly question, but I'm just trying to keep as much as I can intact, so I will have less issues. Thanks.

                  Scudder
                  Yes...except it's called a valve cover. You'll need a new gasket there too.
                  Larry D
                  1980 GS450S
                  1981 GS450S
                  2003 Heritage Softtail

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Scudder View Post
                    I will have to take the camshaft cover off and disassemble the camshafts etc. Right? Manual says to do it. Probably a silly question, but I'm just trying to keep as much as I can intact, so I will have less issues. Thanks.

                    Scudder
                    Take your time and follow the manual step by step it was a piece of cake for me.

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