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    Originally posted by rapidray View Post
    I put the APE studs in ALL of the motors I have because once you start leaning on them the stock studs will give some. I would deem them mandatory on anything 12.0 to 1 or more but that is just me & I overbuild everything! Ray.
    I agree. The stock studs stretch.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      Thanks for the info Ray. Do APE recommend increasing torque figures too?

      With more rigid studs at higher torque, isn't there a tendency for the ali components (block deck, cylinders and head) to crush due to the greater resistance to natural expansion. Larger steel studs won't expand as fast as the ali parts that they are restraining. Head and base gaskets will give initially, but what happens after re-torque when an engine is continually heat cycled over a seasons racing.
      :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

      GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
      GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
      GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
      GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

      http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
      http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

      Comment


        The recommended torque spec for an 1100 or 1150 head with APE studs is 40-42 ft lbs. Stock is a lot less. Ray.

        Comment


          Originally posted by rapidray View Post
          The recommended torque spec for an 1100 or 1150 head with APE studs is 40-42 ft lbs. Stock is a lot less. Ray.
          About 27 (Stock) if I'm not mistaken.

          Comment


            Yes, & I torque the stock ones to 30. Ray.

            Comment


              So...an update on the head "settling in" with my 8V 1000 engine using an Athena MLS head gasket and stock base gasket.

              The head and cylinder were surfaced and the head tightened using a Snap-on dial type torque wrench. After only about 20 miles of run time the head bolts were checked and a number of them had loosened considerably - in the range of 15 ft-lbs.

              Just checked them again after another 30 miles and a few of the bolts were loose again, but not as bad as before.

              Guess the lesson here is if you are running an Athena MLS head gasket, check that puppy several times until things settle down. I'm setting the nuts at 30 ft-lbs too, instead of 27 like before.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                So...an update on the head "settling in" with my 8V 1000 engine using an Athena MLS head gasket and stock base gasket.

                The head and cylinder were surfaced and the head tightened using a Snap-on dial type torque wrench. After only about 20 miles of run time the head bolts were checked and a number of them had loosened considerably - in the range of 15 ft-lbs.

                Just checked them again after another 30 miles and a few of the bolts were loose again, but not as bad as before.

                Guess the lesson here is if you are running an Athena MLS head gasket, check that puppy several times until things settle down. I'm setting the nuts at 30 ft-lbs too, instead of 27 like before.
                Wow! That substantial.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  Yep, couple hundred more miles I'm gonna check it again.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    So...an update on the head "settling in" with my 8V 1000 engine using an Athena MLS head gasket and stock base gasket.

                    The head and cylinder were surfaced and the head tightened using a Snap-on dial type torque wrench. After only about 20 miles of run time the head bolts were checked and a number of them had loosened considerably - in the range of 15 ft-lbs.

                    Just checked them again after another 30 miles and a few of the bolts were loose again, but not as bad as before.

                    Guess the lesson here is if you are running an Athena MLS head gasket, check that puppy several times until things settle down. I'm setting the nuts at 30 ft-lbs too, instead of 27 like before.
                    Thanks for your timely update.

                    My 850 Cometic MLS head gasket got a re-torque at 100 kms and I found some give too. I further re-torqued at 800k kms. It won't see another re-torque until it's next valve adjustment. I will re-torque at all subsequent valve adjustments.

                    It did a track day 2 month ago without any oil leaks. That 0.002" proud sleeve mod is still working well after 4000 kms.
                    Last edited by 49er; 01-01-2010, 06:24 PM. Reason: Correction to info
                    :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

                    GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
                    GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
                    GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
                    GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

                    http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
                    http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      So...an update on the head "settling in" with my 8V 1000 engine using an Athena MLS head gasket and stock base gasket.

                      The head and cylinder were surfaced and the head tightened using a Snap-on dial type torque wrench. After only about 20 miles of run time the head bolts were checked and a number of them had loosened considerably - in the range of 15 ft-lbs.

                      Just checked them again after another 30 miles and a few of the bolts were loose again, but not as bad as before.

                      Guess the lesson here is if you are running an Athena MLS head gasket, check that puppy several times until things settle down. I'm setting the nuts at 30 ft-lbs too, instead of 27 like before.
                      Ed, did you back of the head nuts before retightening or just tighten them up to the proper settings.
                      Thanks.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                        Ed, did you back of the head nuts before retightening or just tighten them up to the proper settings.
                        Thanks.
                        The really loose ones could be made up but the tighter ones needed to be back off first in order to get an accurate torque reading.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                          Ed, did you back of the head nuts before retightening or just tighten them up to the proper settings.
                          Thanks.
                          This should be good for another 12 pages.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            I agree. The stock studs stretch.


                            They are supposed to stretch. That is how a fastener works. Just like a rubber band. The whole point of torquing a bolt is getting it to the "stretched point,and with cylinder/head expansion, yet not getting to the yield point, which is the point of failure...when the little molecules start letting go of each others hands.

                            The proper way to stretch a bolt is to measure it static, and then stretched to it proper load specified by the manufacturer. Since this is impossible to do in most cylinder head bolt/stud applications, we use torque value, or torque angle as the Germans like. Either way works fine. The reason you need to lube the threads and especially the under head of the bolt head is to give the best "lab" results of proper stretch for that particular fastner.


                            Interesting the comitec gasket is looked down on in this application. I have used them on a bunch of FI BMW car engines with excellent results.


                            Go to ARPs website it is all explained in laymans terms.

                            I am okay with being a nerd. Also being corrected if I am wrong.

                            I always understood that the color you see is every other color than the one you see so it is refracted back, all the others are absorbed. :dunno

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by makr View Post
                              Interesting the comitec gasket is looked down on in this application. I have used them on a bunch of FI BMW car engines with excellent results.

                              The 16V 1100 1133-1166 Cometic Head Gaskets have a tooling issue are defective and leak.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                                This should be good for another 12 pages.
                                HEY BILL, Don't short change me !!!!!!!!!!!

                                Only 12 pages !!!

                                We've got to give ED something to do in his spare time (answering our novice questions)., We can't have him sitting at home getting bored can we.

                                Comment

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