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Getting an old rebuild running again

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    #16
    Originally posted by jetta90 View Post
    Dear Mr. gearhead13, from one British Columbian to another................you need to start that baby up. I would even be tempted to just ride it as is and see what it does.
    Besides, you good folks in Victoria don't get much snow during the winter.......... you could ride almost year round if you'd like. Start it up and see what it does, then watch for a decent day weather wise and get a 1 day temporary license from ICBC (government insurance people for those not living in BC) and put some kilometers on it. Go from there.
    Just my thoughts.
    Yes I did ride all year round for about 4 years, but now I have access to a 4 wheel cage with heat LOL. I REALLY miss my bike and if it ever stops raining I will give the girl a run. The 1100 isnt all together, just a frame with tires and an engine. So, to try it out it would have to be installed in my 750 which is insured until June. So, I figure if i am taking the engine out it might as well be gone over then installed in the 750 frame.
    I just havent figured out what to do with the 750 now Its a real nice engine, maybe a real raunchy go-cart
    Seriously, anyone interested in the 750 engine, pm me.
    Oh, BTW what part of BC do you reside, Jetta90?

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      #17
      Pulled the engine apart today, some kind of nasty red sealer used, smells like red loctite
      I wonder if the bores could use more of a hone:
      its the dark areas at the top of the bore i am wondering about

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        #18
        What causes the inperfections in the combustion chambers, just casting flaws or overheating/pinging??
        The head was surfaced, hard to tell how much was taken off, but the surface feels 'notchy' when you run your fingernail across it.

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          #19
          Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
          What causes the inperfections in the combustion chambers, just casting flaws or overheating/pinging??
          The head was surfaced, hard to tell how much was taken off, but the surface feels 'notchy' when you run your fingernail across it.
          U need some much better close ups of those combustion chambers. That end one looks pretty ratty infact cracked but I'm sure there is not enough resolution to tell.

          Also look out for cracks between the valve seats and spark plug hole.

          I will not know but some one else will.

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            #20
            The outer chamber of those two, had something bouncing around in it at one time.
            Perhaps the reason for the "re-build" in the first place.
            I would hone the cylinders and check your ring gaps.
            The cylinder head might be repairable.

            Eric

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              #21
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              U need some much better close ups of those combustion chambers. That end one looks pretty ratty infact cracked but I'm sure there is not enough resolution to tell.

              Also look out for cracks between the valve seats and spark plug hole.

              I will not know but some one else will.
              I looked at the chambers closely with a magnifying glass and there are no cracks. The #1 chamber has some pitting? in it as well just not as bad. A tiny bit on the head gasket surface as well. Looks like casting flaws to me.

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                #22
                Measure the intake valves. Are they oversized?
                27mm is stock.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                  I looked at the chambers closely with a magnifying glass and there are no cracks. The #1 chamber has some pitting? in it as well just not as bad. A tiny bit on the head gasket surface as well. Looks like casting flaws to me.
                  On the valve faces also???

                  Just sayin'

                  Eric

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                    #24
                    I agree the bottom chamber ate something during its life. I would either lightly smooth over any sharp edges or have it welded up and remachined. The latter may be too expensive vs replacing the head. I'm also not sure it is necessary, hard to tell by looking at pictures.

                    Dark spots in the cylinder are either where the previous hone didn't clean up the bore or maybe where the rings were at during the hibernation period. Again hard to give any advice from the pics but that is where the rings are going to be sealing when the plug ignites the fuel mix and makes a whole lot of pressure. The surface needs to be good there!

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                      #25
                      It is hard to tell from pics, I know. The dark areas in the bore are where the hone didnt clean up. The ring end gap measures well within spec, @ .008". Maybe even a little too tight? Tighter than what Wiseco says they should be. I cant see any spot in the bore where the rings sat it one place for a long time. I can see the hone marks in the dark areas, it just didnt clean up real nice.
                      Three of the four sets of valves have rough surfaces.
                      Valves are stock diameter.

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                        #26
                        Well, the old girl gave up her engine quite nice, easier second or third time around I guess. The crank is welded, about 1/3 of the circle has a bead on it, not just a spot. Yes, copper base gasket as well as head gasket. My 750 has a gear indicator on the dash, I am wondering if the sensor on the shift drum will work with my 750 dash, anybody know?

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                          #27
                          The gear indicator will work.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                            #28
                            Making progress, got the head torqued down
                            Cleaning, polishing, painting side covers and stuff now
                            Waiting for my stainless bolt kit to arrive



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                              #29
                              Looking good; U been busy

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                                #30
                                Hows the clutch hub? I'd look into a Gorrila clutch hub or find a rebuilt one off Ebay. Those stock suckers just plain suck.
                                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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