On my recent 1000S engine rebuild I measured the cam chain and could not measure any wear at all compared to the factory spec. Salty_Monk's GS1000 cam chain with about 80k miles likewise didn't show much wear. Suzuki used good parts on these engines because cam chain wear just isn't an issue.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
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- Torrance, CA
Unless someone is running high lift cams and springs, there is no reason to worry about the cam chain. Get a stock replacement one piece cam chain if you are worried.
On my recent 1000S engine rebuild I measured the cam chain and could not measure any wear at all compared to the factory spec. Salty_Monk's GS1000 cam chain with about 80k miles likewise didn't show much wear. Suzuki used good parts on these engines because cam chain wear just isn't an issue.Last edited by Nessism; 12-15-2009, 09:24 PM.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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doctorgonzo
I think the thinking Steve (this is my thinking) is "I've got 2 grand, 3 grand, 6 grand (name your level) in this motor", It's insurance, If you've got the motor torn apart anyway, and one is less than $70 (HD Chain), why not. Just for laughs on a stock motor, not needed.
I'm off to mock up a Bandit front end!
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Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostI think the thinking Steve (this is my thinking) is "I've got 2 grand, 3 grand, 6 grand (name your level) in this motor", It's insurance, ...
I wasn't tryng to imply that a NEW chain was not necessary, just that it didn't have to be HEAVY-DUTY.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Don-lo
What size spacer are you thinking of putting in there? I think your big problem will be needing a longer cam chain (and maybe longer studs).
There was an article in one of the mags about mixing and matching 86-90 GSXR750 cranks, rods, etc. to get a long-throw motor, and they needed a spacerplate/camchain for that (made by Falicon?). I think they claimed it was the highest horsepower 750 they ever dynoed. I can probably find the article (up in the attic).
Are you making your own plate? If it is made by someone, they can tell you what you need.
They used to make low compression pistons for turbo applications.
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1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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gsryder
Originally posted by Don-lo View PostWhat size spacer are you thinking of putting in there? I think your big problem will be needing a longer cam chain (and maybe longer studs).
There was an article in one of the mags about mixing and matching 86-90 GSXR750 cranks, rods, etc. to get a long-throw motor, and they needed a spacerplate/camchain for that (made by Falicon?). I think they claimed it was the highest horsepower 750 they ever dynoed. I can probably find the article (up in the attic).
Are you making your own plate? If it is made by someone, they can tell you what you need.
They used to make low compression pistons for turbo applications.
I am still working out details and gathering parts. So far I have all the major components - Katana front end, GSRX rear swinger, 1100 engine, Turbo from a 1.8liter Audi A4, all going on to my 1981 gs750 frame this winter. I will starting a build thread once I actually start putting the wrench to her, for now I am still gathering parts and info.
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doctorgonzo
Why do you want to drop the compression slightly, not saying anything is wrong with it, just asking.
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gsryder
Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostWhy do you want to drop the compression slightly, not saying anything is wrong with it, just asking.
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by gsryder View PostWhen you run a turbo you want to lower the compression depending on how much boost you plan on running. Lower compression helps prevent denotation once the the turbo starts to spool up.
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gsryder
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Originally posted by gsryder View PostSo far I have all the major components - Katana front end, GSRX rear swinger, 1100 engine, Turbo from a 1.8liter Audi A4, ...
The housings on the turbo are sized for that engine and its operating speed, basically meaning airflow. Your engine is only 60% of the size of the Audi, so you will have to run it over 1.5 times faster to get the same results. What's the redline on the Audi? What's the redline on the GS? Yeah, the GS redline might be about 1.5 times the Audi, but the airflow formulas are not linear, they are exponential, so you will likely see just a little boost near redline and not nearly enough below that to make it worth all the effort.
Maybe RapidRay or Blowerbike or one of the other racers/builders can give some specifics on what you might need, I only know the generalities based on trying to fit a wrong turbo on a car.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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gsryder
Originally posted by Steve View PostYou going to change the turbine or compressor housings on the turbo? If not, you won't get much pressure.
The housings on the turbo are sized for that engine and its operating speed, basically meaning airflow. Your engine is only 60% of the size of the Audi, so you will have to run it over 1.5 times faster to get the same results. What's the redline on the Audi? What's the redline on the GS? Yeah, the GS redline might be about 1.5 times the Audi, but the airflow formulas are not linear, they are exponential, so you will likely see just a little boost near redline and not nearly enough below that to make it worth all the effort.
Maybe RapidRay or Blowerbike or one of the other racers/builders can give some specifics on what you might need, I only know the generalities based on trying to fit a wrong turbo on a car.
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So I am basically starting small and using this a learning curve with tuning, fitment, fuel, oil, etc. then I plan to swap out for a bigger turbo if necessary.
Even though the K03 is small I should be able to get around 180hp at the wheel and even if it is a little less or a little more I am basically just doing this for fun.
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gsryder
Here are a few pics of the turbo
Came of a believe a 1994 Audi A4 1.8 liter. I know the guy whos car it was it was a low mileage nice car he drove into a ditch and bent the frame totaling it. So I was able to get the turbo for free.
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Grandpa
Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostFunny story for you Nick and everyone else: your old GK got it's motor torn apart a couple days ago actually. For those that don't know I bought grandpas GK with 130+k miles on it a couple of summers ago. I've since passed it on to my roommie as he gets more joy out of the big bagger than I did. Anyway at 140ish thousand miles now (yes I said 140THOUSAND miles) it finally devoloped enough of a base gasket leak to warrant a tear down and refurb. The head has never been off of this bike. Valves are still in spec and the funniest thing and my point for this story is that the stock cam chain is still in spec by over 50% of it's wear limit. At 140k miles this cam chain givin the current wear rate will last over 280 thousand miles before it would wear to replacement limit. These are tough engines boys. Overbuilt heavily. If you're not increasing HP I don't see a point in a heavy duty anything unless it's just as cheap as the OEM replacement (providing it needs replaced at all)
I guess it was a matter of time before it would start leaking from the base gasket. What, if anything, are you going to replace on the engine besides new gaskets, o-rings, etc.? Maybe new carb boots?
With the updated suspension, refreshed engine, and the new bearing on the driveshaft, it's a brand new bike!
Nick Diaz
Middletown, MD
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