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Turn signals on 83750ES - electrical

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    Turn signals on 83750ES - electrical

    Anyone want to hazard a guess why all 4 turn signals come on at half bright regardless of what I do with the switch?? (even with it off & the flasher removed). When I move the switch they flicker a bit.

    These things were working earlier tonight & then I went to connect them up proper & boom.

    They are LED's but I have an electronic flasher & I'll say again - they were working fine with this setup.

    I get almost full batt voltage on all four of the "live" legs of the turn signal wires.

    No fancy box on this bike just a switch & a 2 wire flasher...

    It's not the new wiring I've put in as I've checked that (by using a voltmeter with them all unplugged) so it's somewhere in the loom. I also checked out the switch, doesn't seem to be a problem up there either...

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    #2
    They are not grounding properly, find the ground wire from each and run a single ground from the back of the bike to the battery and another from the front of the bike to the battery. The loom on the '83s have too many connections and build up resistance like crazy.

    Comment


      #3
      I'm gonna go with Clone on this one.

      I found long ago that, if electrics are doing something screwy, it's a ground problem.

      I know you said it was working fine, I'm just surprised that it works well with a 2-wire flasher. Most of the flashers for LEDs use an internal timing circuit, so they need one terminal for power in, one for the flashing wire out and a ground wire for its own internal circuit.

      .
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      Comment


        #4
        I am having a similar problem, just re-installed the factory signals I purchased from Dan. They come on when I fire up the bike, when I move the switch left or right they stay on and the opposite turns off. I dont have the rears hooked up yet, could that be it? Also I noticed the rears that I have appear to be fronts, they have an extra wire. Will they still work?

        Comment


          #5
          If I remember right, if all the signals are not connected, IE rear ones, it will do that.

          On the three wires, they would be fronts or OEM replacements, but they will work. The K&S OEM replacements are that way, and instructions just say to leave on wire disconnected. I just taped it back to cover it up.

          One wire is positive wire for the running light filiment of the bulb,
          Second wire is positive for the turn signal filiment of the bulb,
          and third wire is the ground for both.



          I have always had problems with LEDs, either not bright enough, or blinking problems. Last bike I tried them on, switch right or left all would blink. It was enough for me to stay with filiment type.

          Seems I have read something here about issues on the two wire flasher like Steve mentions. Just don't remember the thread.

          Comment


            #6
            Joe,

            Yours is a resistance deal caused by not having them all hooked up. Different issue entirely. Connect them up, that should fix it.

            _____

            For my issue I can't see it being a ground problem as I get the same result with the meter when I measure between ground on the battery & live on the loom at each point on the turn signals. I wonder if there could be some kind of short inside the gauge cluster giving a back feed through the loom, that's the only thing I've been moving around really....

            The lights come on dimly as soon as you turn the ignition key & regardless of switch position or whether the flasher is plugged in or not. It also makes no difference regarding whether 1 or all 4 are connected, the reading is always positive where the turn signals join the loom.

            Dan
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #7
              Clean the splines on your shifter
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                Wow... fixed! Thanks bill!

                Actually it was caused by a loose plug connection on the main gauge cluster plug! Weird huh! Working fine again now....

                Dan
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                Comment

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