What should I do next

[Theo]

Okay so Ive been making great progess, at least to me, on my bike and I'm soon going to hit a wall in terms of what to do next. What I've done so far is:

1) Finished the rebuild of the engine that the PO started
2) Adjusted the valves
3) Replaced the clutch springs, washers, and bolts
4) Checked the stator for shorts
5) Completely rebuilt carbs and changed all o-rings (thanks Richard Barr)

Wow, when I write it down like that, it seems like I've done nothing, but all of that took me a few weeks. Well anyway, next on my plan is to replace all rubber boots, seal air box, get new air filter, all new fuel and vent lines, clean, seal and paint gas tank, and replace the petcock. Once I've done all that, the whole fuel and air delivery system should be all set. But then, what should I do next. Most of the things on the bike will either need to be cleaned, rebuilt, or replaced. But should I do anything else before I even know if the motor runs? Also it's getting very hard to work on the bike now. The bike sleeps outside and it's in the 20's with a foot of snow on the ground. Holding a wrench for any matter of time is not fun. Who said winter is the time for fixing things? Well what do you guys think? Thanks.
-Theo

[Nessism]

Good job Theo, it's enjoyable reading a thread from someone that is doing the job right and taking care of all the basic maintenance.

I suggest you add a brake system tear down to your list of things to do. The rubber brake hoses should be replaced assuming the origionals are still on the bike, and you should clean out the calipers and master. Assuming nothing is leaking now you can reuse the rubber seals. The brake fluid gathers water and turns chunky so a tear down is the only proper way to clean the system after 30 years of usage.

[Theo]

Good job Theo, it's enjoyable reading a thread from someone that is doing the job right and taking care of all the basic maintenance.

I suggest you add a brake system tear down to your list of things to do. The rubber brake hoses should be replaced assuming the origionals are still on the bike, and you should clean out the calipers and master. Assuming nothing is leaking now you can reuse the rubber seals. The brake fluid gathers water and turns chunky so a tear down is the only proper way to clean the system after 30 years of usage.

Thanks for the kind words. Yeah the brake lines are on my list of things to do, I'm just wondering if I should test the motor out first before doing anything else, or just go ahead and do them. Just in case anyone is curious, here is my almost complete list of things I will be doing. Enjoy
-Theo

Fuel & Air
• New Air Filter
• New air box to carb boots
• New carb to engine boots
• New Fuel, vacuum, vent, and drain hoses
• New Hose clamps
• New float bowl gasket
• New carb plugs
• New petcock
• Replace carb screws for stainless steel
• Clean and Seal tank
• Paint Tank

Frame
• Repair and paint side covers
• Clean and paint frame
• Clean and/or replace all frame bolts
• Clean Fenders

Suspension
• Replace rear shocks
• Clean/rebuild, possibly replace, forks

Engine
• New oil filter
• Clean oil pan and screen

Exhaust
• Need tailpipes

Final Drive
• New Chain

Controls
• New Throttle, Clutch, Speedo, Tach, and choke cables
• New Handlebar

Brakes
• New brake pads
• Replace brake calipers
• Inspect/clean or replace master cylinders
• New brake lines
• Inspect and clean brake rotors

Wheels
• New tires and tubes
• New wheel bearings

Electrical
• New spark plugs
• New regulator
• New coils
• New battery
• New blade type fuse panel
• LED turn and stop lights
• Redo wiring harness

[twr1776]

Today 08:38 AM Theo I'm just wondering if I should test the motor out first before doing anything else, or just go ahead and do them.

If you have no history on the motor I would concentrate on getting it running and testing it first before going on to the "other" stuff just in case.

Nice list BTW, lots of work but if you want a reliable ride you cannot take shortcuts.

[terrylee]

Might as well replace oil filter cover o-ring (if yours has one) and maybe replace oil pan gasket and clean or replace oil screen inside. I rebuilding a 450T which I had all this much done. You shouldn't have to worry about getting it running if you just rebuilt the engine. I thought i had it bad with a unheated garage! terrylee

[Theo]

If you have no history on the motor I would concentrate on getting it running and testing it first before going on to the "other" stuff just in case.

Yeah that's what I thought, but is there a way to test it with out putting it back in the bike. It wasn't very fun carrying it the first time and I was only able to get my brother to reluctantly help me. Now that the motor is all bolted up, it's going to be a lot heavier, and I'm going to have a hard time finding someone as crazy as me to help me carry it outside and put it back in with this freezing weather. If there is no other way, I might have to wait until the weather warms up and the snow melts...sigh ...

[spyug]

Good work sir. That is the way to do it.

As the others mention, I would make sure it runs right before investing in all the other bits that need referbing. That's how I'm proceeding. I freed up the seized engine, cleaned up the head and re-adjusted the valves. I've rebuilt the carbs and tidied up the wiring harness. My tank and petcock were done prior to me getting it so I'm going to put it all together, add a battery and see what I get.

Once I'm confident the engine is functioning properly then I'll proceed to rest of it.

Keep us informed on how it goes for you.

Good luck with it.

spyug

[Nessism]

I've rebuilt five different GS's now and never bothered to "get it running" before taking care of thing in need. My opinion is to do all the basic work that is needed and if anything unforseen is discovered, deal with it. Worst thing that can happen is you split the cases. No big deal.

[Octain]

Hey Theo,
Just to let ya know you not alone. I know how you feel. Do a buncha work(and money) not even knowing if it'll run.
Im down to the frame and motor on my 78 right now and feeling a bit insecure about things. I never heard mine run although I did get it to turn over with a jump to check compression by jumping the starter relay. I think Im gonna end up doing a topend do to low compression on one cylinder(70lbs). The other have over 130lbs.

Its almost time to remove the engine and begin resto on the frame and start spending money but dang, it sure would be nice to know if the engiine worked.

I think like you, Im just gonna go for it.

[Octain]

split the cases. No big deal.

Like anything else, its only a big deal if you dont know how.

[Larry D]

I'd get it running to check out the charging system. Get the bike charging correctly, then brakes and tires. Keep up the good work. Ask around and see if you can find a friend of a friend where you could work and store the bike inside.

[Theo]

I've rebuilt five different GS's now and never bothered to "get it running" before taking care of thing in need. My opinion is to do all the basic work that is needed and if anything unforseen is discovered, deal with it. Worst thing that can happen is you split the cases. No big deal.

That is very good advice. Like you said, the worst thing is I would have to split the cases. Hopefully it won't come to that. But it seems like nothing is truly broken on these bikes, everything can be fixed with a little time and money. Well thanks for putting it in perspective for me and to everyone else who replied. Time to continue with the frame tear down.
-Theo

[Turtleface]

Looks like you and I are in the same boat, mostly. Doing all the things that should have been done by the PO! I got lucky enough on my bike, it's fairly clean to start with, but I've got enough small parts to order to make my AMA membership more than pay for itself, just in the discount I get at Bike Bandit. Which is something to keep in mind if you're going to be buying all the bits to clean up the air signal. An AMA membership is about $39 a year, and gets you a ten percent discount (I think) at Bike Bandit. More than worth it, since you can order most gear/tools/accessories through them as well, and I'm sure they'll price match if you find it cheaper elsewhere.

P.S. Your list looks pretty solid, similar to how I'm proceeding. I'd leave ALL the cosmetics for last, except stuff that can't be done with the engine installed. Concentrate on getting the engine running perfectly, (which would involve fixing/checking the electrical system) then fix anything that might kill you if it should fail while you're riding. Make sure you're torque wrench is calibrated properly as well, you'll need it a lot. Bearings should be checked and replaced if needed. Basically, make sure everything works as well as, or better, than it did when it came off the factory floor. When you order replacement parts, make sure there's not a better than stock piece available. A lot of items can be upgraded to newer/better pieces, for the same amount of cash or less than OEM. Stators, regulator/rectifiers, and ignition boxes are a good example of this.

[Nessism]

That is very good advice. Like you said, the worst thing is I would have to split the cases. Hopefully it won't come to that. But it seems like nothing is truly broken on these bikes, everything can be fixed with a little time and money. Well thanks for putting it in perspective for me and to everyone else who replied. Time to continue with the frame tear down.
-Theo

My 1000S engine was TRASHED when I bought the bike: cylinders scored up, broken valve springs, head torn up from broken springs, pistons damaged, etc. Of course this triggered a full rebuild. I didn't know all this when purchasing the bike, and even got the engine running before determining all these problem. It took a good bit of work and scrounging for parts but now the engine is fully rebuilt and running great. Between the For Sale forum here and ebay I was able to get all the basic parts for cheap: good head and cylinder/pistons. No reason to freak out over the odd problem that may turn up; just fix it. Anyone capable of performing a proper carburetor rebuild can also rebuild the engine. You just need to take your time and stay organized. I'd much rather go though an engine myself vs. purchasing a used engine and gambling. Everything can be fixed, it just takes time and money.

[Dave8338]

I've rebuilt five different GS's now and never bothered to "get it running" before taking care of thing in need. My opinion is to do all the basic work that is needed and if anything unforseen is discovered, deal with it. Worst thing that can happen is you split the cases. No big deal.

I agree. If you're doing the work correctly, it will run and from what you've already done to it...it will run WELL!!

Pick your project and finish it. Keep that up and you'll be riding a sweetly reliable bike for years to come.

Good Work!