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High temp thread lockers??

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    #16
    Mr Hahn,
    Studs can snap off just like bolts.
    And after you've super duty loctited them in place....you're right back where you started.

    Installing studs is a good idea....bonding them in place is not.
    Hi-temp anti sieze is your friend.

    And as a side note:
    If installed correctly, the studs will bottom out in the head. Which will lock them in place.
    Consider all the heat cycles, water, dirt...etc. the front of the engine is exposed to.
    Eventually the studs will become fatigued and/or brittle and it will be necessary to replace them.
    Last edited by gs1197; 01-02-2010, 07:41 PM.
    Thieves.....kill them all.

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      #17
      Use Stainless studs (A4 std) with some copper grease on, then use Stainless washers & nuts that will not seize onto the studs as they're made of the same metal & will not corrode to eachother. Copper grease will stop the studs corroding in the the Ally cylinders too.

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        #18
        Just curious, why replace with permanent studs and not a new set of hex bolts?

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          #19
          Jwhelan..My thinking is this::Permanenet studs would never have to be removed to get the exhaust off for whatever reason it needs to be taken off. Just take off the nut and remove the exhaust. This will permanently eliminate the possibility of a BOLT breaking off in the head and having to go through all the grief of trying to remove it and being sucessful.
          Secondly, if a nut gets stuck on a stud all you gotta do is use a nut splitter and its off in seconds with no dammage to the studs. Just crack the nut, remove, and replace iwth another nut. I think i would rather spend a buck on a few nuts than go through all the BS from a broken bolt in the heads
          And to who ever asked about why not just use new bolts... They were new bolts this spring. I hit them with PB blaster so i could get them out and they were really tight and squeaked all the way. The reason i was removing the exhaust was so i could get to the front of the motor to bead blast the engine down. I got it all done and it looks really sharp.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
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            #20
            I recently snapped off a stud on the pinch bolts for the front axle of my '86 Cavalcade. I have no idea why it would snap before the nut over lock-washer loosened. I had enough of the stud left and exposed that I was able to back it out with vice-grips after applying some PB Blaster and waiting a bit. I'm glad it wasn't thread-locked in because my understanding was I was going to have to maybe heat things to get it out. I would concur that it is best to avoid trying to make studs a permanent installation. If they back out while trying to loosen the nut, that is an inconvenience. If they snap, that is possibly a major inconvenience.
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              #21
              The idea of permanently locking bots/studs in place is one all of have wished to do at some time, and for reasons very similar to your own.


              All of us who have tried it, and then continued doing mechanical work on engines for a number of years afterwards, have learned that it was not the best idea.
              Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

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                #22
                Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
                Just curious, why replace with permanent studs and not a new set of hex bolts?
                With bolts, you will be wearing out the threads in the aluminum every time you have to remove and reinstall them. Granted most of us don't have to worry about that, but if you have a header that has to be removed to do an oil change, those bolts will be in and out several times. Studs will go into the threads once, at least until they break and have to be drilled out.

                .
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                  #23
                  Here you go Chuck,
                  And +1 on the stainless stud and hardware if and/or when you proceed with this.

                  Any decent auto supply store should have it in stock, any of them can order it in.
                  Good to 204 degrees, highest rated stuff available over the counter. After that though, it burns like wildfire. Let if fully cure (24-72 hours) at least before firing her up.
                  Only 3in-lbs breakaway strength, so easy-ish to remove, if needed.
                  Here's a link to the product sheet for it.


                  Ever need them out in a bad way, heat the stud only with a high temp torch, allow to cool, double nut/stud extractor/vise grip them out in that order of preference IMHO.
                  Last edited by Guest; 01-05-2010, 03:20 AM.

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