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    Another newbie here w/carb problem?

    Hello all!

    I am new poster, here and new member. Here's the story. I recently picked up a 1982 Gs1100gk2 from a friend of mine bike has been sitting for a few years. A freebie at that, good friend for sure. The bike has had some issues with carbs. I think! Previously he had the carbs cleaned 3 times and I believe they were adjusted and synced. Everytime he got it back it would run fantastic for about a week or two then would start to have issues again. Okay here goes for what so far I have found. The gas tank is rusty in some spots had two pin holes agound the petcock area would explain some of the rust. I cleaned out about a half of a shot glass of junk, rust and what not.
    I took the carbs off and boiled them out with lemon jiuce(found that tip from another site)cleaned the jets out and examined under a magnifying glass looked clean ran a small wire through the pilot jet holes. I believe that is what they are called. Never messed with the float levels but was real carefull when taking them off. Cleaned and blew out all the orifices I could see, checked the diaphrams cleaned the needles of varnish. I made sure everything was marked to go with each carb in a container.Never did remove carbs from the rails. Okay so I put the carbs back on the bike. I'm using a remote tank until the original is relined.Start the bike up choking it. runs on choke and slowly I can drop the choke down to almost and idle hear some popping sometimes when still cold. My question is cylinders 1 and 2 do not warm up to hot temp like cycls 3and 4. Plugs on 3,4 are tannish to white and dry. Plugs 1,2 are not wet but damp.. checked spark on 1,2 can see spark. Bike runs like crap can't get a nice rev out of it. bogs and sputters. Any suggestions. Sorry for the long post.

    #2
    First of all,

    That's not really such a "long post", it just describes your problem and what you have done so far.


    Now, about boiling the carbs in lemon juice ... I have no idea how boiling the carbs in a substance that is a bit sticky and gummy is going to remove the stickiness and gumminess that is inside the little passages inside the carb bodies. If you did not separate the carbs from the rails, how many gallons of lemon juice did you use? How much did that cost? And how long did you boil them?

    Just wondering, because a gallon-size can of the stuff that most of us use very successfully is about $20 at your local auto parts store. Whether you separate the rack or not, you will need new o-rings to put them back together properly. Fortunately, if you go to cycleorings.com, you can get a full set of o-rings for your carbs, and that package also includes the o-rings for the fuel transfer tubes between the carbs, so there is NO reason to not separate the rack.

    Unfortunately, I feel that your carbs still need to be cleaned. We keep saying over and over that shortcuts taken while cleaning the carbs end up being longcuts, but you may not have been lurking long enough to see that.

    When you put the carbs back on the bike, what settings did you use for the idle mixture adjustment screws? If you used the stock settings, that could be part of your problem. You need to start with three full turns out from lightly seated, then, when the bike is warm, adjust the screws for highest idle speed.

    Another possible problem would be the presence of an airbox. When you put the carbs back on, did you also install the airbox with a filter? If not, you won't get above an idle, no matter what you do (unless you do some serious re-jetting).

    Welcome to the forum, glad you found us and all that, now go back and clean your carbs.

    .
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    Comment


      #3
      carb

      Thanks for the reply Steve

      I used over a gallon of juice, in a turkey roasting pan. It really did clean the carbs up nice inside and out as far as the parts that I could see, then they were all flushed with water and blown out with compressed air. I did not take out the brass tubes with the four I believe holes down in the tube. Forgot what that part is called. Don't have a manual to go by. The mixture was previously set at 2.5 turns from bottom. I closed to 2 turns. Everything I have read online says to start at about 1 5/8 turns out. So you think cyls 1,2 are not getting fuel? Still plugged somwhere? Like I said cyls 3,4 seem to be running as they should be, after running for about 5 minutes 3,4 are nice and warm almost to hot to touch, but 1,2 are somewhat warm. Thanks for the help.

      Comment


        #4
        Did you take out the idle mixture screws and replace the o-rings? Did you clean the pilot jets? Remove the floats and clean the screen under the float valve?
        With a rusty tank these carbs need to be split and soaked in Berrymans.
        Follow this http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

        With the tank you'll need to use some POR 15 and seal it up. You will have the same problems the PO had with the carbs if you don't.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Greetings and Salutations!!

          Hi Mr. jwebfournow,

          Yeah, just because it takes you a long time to type it doesn't mean it takes a long time to read it.

          There are several systems that must be functioning properly in order to get the most joy out of these old classics. There's lots of reference material below that should get you started in the right direction.

          Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

          Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

          Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

          Comment


            #6
            Hate to sound like an echo but take the carbs back off and follow the tutorial Bikecliff has. Second that on the airbox too. These things just don't like to run without some intake restriction. And finally third that on the new o-rings.
            Good wrenching and keep us updated!

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks guys for the info. I just wished I would have found the articles from GSR and BassCliff's before. I just found them last night. What a good and informative read. I have had alot of bikes in the past, but this is the first time for me tearing into a set of carbs after seeing the GSR document seems a little daunting I didn't realize that there were that many more parts I was already intimidated by what I already did but what the heck I'm game. I have read about the POR-15 treatment for the tank. Is the general consensus that the Por kit is the best? I really want to get this bike back to its original running condition, it only has 20k on it and has been sitting outdoors here in California. So the tank and bags need to be repainted, this is just a project for me, I don't ride anymore do to being in a wheelchair,, so when I'm done with this project I'll pass it along to somebody who can get some use out of it. I hate to see older complete bikes get parted if they don't have to be. Besides projects like this keep the mind sharp. I really appreciate the responses, once I figure out how to post a pic I'll get one on here.

              Comment


                #8
                Welcome !!

                I had great luck with the por-15 in the 750. I would recommend it. It was just enough to do that "little" tank, you may consider getting the larger amount for the GK tank. Be careful of the paint on the tank and make up some kind of stopper for the gas cap and petcock openings.

                Here's how to post up pics, you can do up to 10 now !!!

                Larry D
                1980 GS450S
                1981 GS450S
                2003 Heritage Softtail

                Comment


                  #9
                  Here's a pic of the new bike, Hope I did everything alright to get it here online. I'm not sure if this the correct area to be placing this pic but since I have posted to for tech advice I'll share.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    can't add anything to the previous suggestions, but free bike? somebody up there must like you!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you sell parts or provide services for GS series motorcycles, place a description of it in this forum.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

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