I wanna junk the sealed-beam so I can do very illegal things

[Anonymous]

Well, I've heard all over the halogen is the way to go, away from the sealed beams, and it's time for me to make the change. I recently started dressing up my bike (new Kings Gun alarm with pager, underglow lights, soon a paint job) and I want to do very illegal strobes in the headlights, shorty turn signals and the like, so I need something drillable. Out with the sealed in with the H4 set up, but where can I get one?

[Anonymous]

Try JC Whitney ro J&P Cycles metric catalog.

[argonsagas]

Keep in mind that the electrical system is a weak point on many (most?) GS bikes.


You will want to do a very thorough check of your own charging system BEFORE making the lighting mods, to be sure it will handle the added loads you intend adding.

[Anonymous]

I think I found it on EBay (GSs have a 7in headlight, right? I'll measure tomorrow) As far as the electricals go, I agree, that's why I have electrex through out my charging system, and if I go totally radical (ie, the stereo in the saddlebags, 12 light strobe and underglow) I will add a 1 farad cap in the saddlebags and possibly a friction drive alternator off the rear tire. All the extra lighting (and possibly stereo) will never be run on the streets, just on University Ave in the parking lots to show the plastic fantastics and Hardly Ablesons they are not the only game in town. Besides, if my department head at UMD signs off on it, I'll be building a brand new style of motor to slap in this frame (part of my engineering program). Sure, it'll no longer be a GS heart, but I couldnt pass up the chance to cut my motor for the cost of stock aluminum with no machining costs, other than my time. Hopefully in 10 yrs my engines will be doing burnouts in cities across the country.

[Anonymous]

Coming to Brainerd with this bike anytime soon? Would like to see it. Actually, I'll be in Duluth on the 17th of August. I'll have to keep my eyes open.

[Anonymous]

The 78 GS1000's used a sealed beam but my '79 has a H4 element. So find a 79 light and you can change bulbs. As previously mentioned, however, the stock electrical system can't handle much extra watts. Previous threads have talked about replacing the headlight connector with a heavier unit, running heavier wires, and a relay for the headlight. IMHO anything less would not be very trustworthy for the long haul.

As far as extra goodies, the existing alternator only can put out so much juice. Adding a 1 farad cap helps momentary loads, such as peaks in a car stereo, but over time the alternator must be able to recharge the cap AND still supply the load. So if the system's overloaded with relatively constant loads like extra lights, you could put in 200 farads and still run out of juice. ALSO, a big cap will pull a large inrush current when you start up. That may fry the rectifier/regulator, wiring, or connectors. An external alternator is theoretically possible, though anything wired to that alternator must be completely separate, and not grounded to the existing system. Gets rather cumbersome, real fast.

I hate to pee in your Wheaties, but one must be realistic before going overboard on a project. Good luck, however.

[Anonymous]

You read my mind with the external alternator. Actually, the cap is gonna be on a completely separate circuit, as are the extra goodies and *POSSIBLY* a friction drive alternator off the rear wheel. I was thinking of just putting a sprocket on it and running it off the chain, but using a small rubber tire, say off a wagon or a toy and friction driving off the rear wheel would be safer, and easier to conceal. The bracket for the alternator would, ofcourse, be spring loaded and be retractable for long rides where I don't need the second electrical system at all. I'd also have a tie-over to the main electrical system that would not be hooked up, except in emergency. I was stranded once 150 miles out, not fun. It's all just concept now, I need to finish everything else first.