changing fork oil

[bonzo]

I started to change the fork oil on my 82 1100g which I've never done before. I took back the rubber caps on the top and found a nut with a flathead screw in the middle (picture attached). what is this screw and do I need to remove/loosen prior to undoing the nut? I tried to undo the nut but it wasn't budging so I thought I'd better check first.

[ianralph]

Have a look here -

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=96072&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2157

Your fork caps don't look standard for your model - either model D or Model Z.

[sharpy]

Undo the top yoke pinch bolt first. Then use a good ring spanner (22mm i think) NOT A SHIFTER to undo that nut. If you really want turn the slot anti-clockwise to put less pressure onto the spring. If you cant budge use WD40 liberally and let stand over nite. Ill be taking the front wheel out, then the mudguard then take one fork at a time out and let stand upside down to drain the oil. But remember to undo that nut first. Just watch for some spring pressure when its undoing. There a fine thread so be carefull of crossthreading

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Yep, what Sharpy said!

[Steve]

... Then use a good ring spanner (22mm i think) NOT A SHIFTER to undo that nut. ...

For those of us that don't speak "Aussie", I think he's saying "use a box-end wrench, not an open-end wrench ..."

Tip:
Use a large screwdriver, push in on the screw and turn it anti-clockwise until there is minimum pressure on it. There are notches in its position, much like setting the preload on the rear shocks. This will minimize the "sprooiinnnggg" when the cap reaches the end of its threads.

Another tip:
After you get the "nut" (it's actually called "fork cap") off the top, pull the spring out (you will be doing that anyway), put the fork cap back in place and turn it until the threads catch. Pull up on the cap, turn it very slowly until the threads release. Repeat this until you can be SURE where the threads release. Use a marker, make a mark on the tube and the cap to show this location. When you are ready to re-assemble the fork, it will be a simple matter to align the marks, push down on the spring and know that the threads will catch almost immediately when you start turning the cap.

.

[salty_monk]

I think he is saying don't use an adjustable spanner (wrench) use a ring spanner (box wrench) or a socket is easiest in my opinion.

Dan

[Steve]

Yeah, I guess "shifter" could really mean a wrench that "shifts" sizes.

.

[Redman]

I will also say what has been said above:
That does not look at all like anything on the forks of the 82 GS1100G (GK actaully) nor 80 GS850G that I have had.

Hopefully the folks giving the advise are speaking from expereince on whatever model does have something like that.

To get the caps off the GS1100GK and GS850G it is best to loosen (but not remove) the caps while the tubes are still clamped in the front end. THe best way to hold the fork tube is to leave it clamped in the front end.

.

[bonzo]

Have a look here -

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=96072&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2157

Your fork caps don't look standard for your model - either model D or Model Z.

geez thanks for that resource. very handy. Your right, it seems the forks are off another model. Probably not the only part on this bike Thanks for the tips everyone. I'll give it another go on the weekend. Landshark I sent you a PM I wouldn't mind catching up and leeching any GS knowledge you have. Good to know there are other GS'ers on the coast.

[Redman]

geez thanks for that resource. very handy. Your right, it seems the forks are off another model. ...
......
......

Which will then bring up the next two question:
- how much / what level oil to put in?
- what weight of oil?

Go by manual for your model of bike... but that is not what forks you have.
Go by manual for what ever forks those are... but that is not what bike you have.

.

[hikermikem]

Which will then bring up the next two question:
- how much / what level oil to put in?
- what weight of oil?

Go by manual for your model of bike... but that is not what forks you have.
Go by manual for what ever forks those are... but that is not what bike you have.

.

I need to look a bit harder at the pics, but those forks tops look like the ones on my '81 GS1100E.

[hikermikem]

Do you have a dampener dial at the bottom of each fork?? Those are '81 1100E front forks I believe.

You don't need to move that big sloted screw to remove the caps, it just sets the preload of the springs - three different levels. It might be very stuck and will be easier to free once it's isolated...

As you unscrew that large cap (use a socket) be ready when it lets go, there's a good amount of force behind it & the spring will come flying out.

The service manual for those forks states:

15w fork oil
fork oil level = 216mm (8.5")
capacity each leg = 238ml (8.04 oz)

[Steve]

You don't need to move that big sloted screw to remove the caps, it just sets the preload of the springs - three different levels. It might be very stuck and will be easier to free once it's isolated...

As you unscrew that large cap (use a socket) be ready when it lets go, there's a good amount of force behind it & the spring will come flying out.

No, you don't need to move the big slotted screw, but since it adds preload to the springs, if it is set to add preload, they will fly that much harder when the threads let go. Back off the preload, if you can, to minimize how far they get thrown across the garage.

.

[Turtleface]

No, you don't need to move the big slotted screw, but since it adds preload to the springs, if it is set to add preload, they will fly that much harder when the threads let go. Back off the preload, if you can, to minimize how far they get thrown across the garage.

.

Where's the fun in that? Nothing like spending a few hours searching for your fork cap. I personally like a socket for this task. You might need to remove your handlebars to do it, but a half inch drive ratchet and a 22 mm socket will work best, in my humble opinion. Using the ratchet allows you to press down on the cap while turning it, lessening the chance of it flying all over. If your springs are stockers, it probably won't have too much pressure.

[hikermikem]

No, you don't need to move the big slotted screw, but since it adds preload to the springs, if it is set to add preload, they will fly that much harder when the threads let go. Back off the preload, if you can, to minimize how far they get thrown across the garage.

.

I agree, but if his preload screws are just as frozen as mine were, you can spend a lot of time trying to turn that screw, and most likely buggering up the slot a bit.

Once the caps are off & you can spray the internal pin with some PB Blaster to get it free - then clean it up. There's a rubber seal in the sleeve that I couldn't get out on mine, but I cleaned everything up & lubed it well & all works as it should now...

However, rebuilding those dampener rods inside the tubes was a PITA.