Four into one rejet

[bwringer]

115 mains are stock on the 850+ shafties, so there are probably plenty of these rattling around in drawers out there.

[duaneage]

I have alot of jets I can slip in an envelope for you.
115 and 117.5? I'll have a looksy

That might be the way to go. I've not rejetted before and I'm not sure what to expect. I'll PM my address

[Skateguy50]

While everyone is on the subject got any links to pictures of this needle valve spacer adjustment stuff? I dont plan to open up my carbs again but curious if it may or may not help me. I get a little bit of hesitation up around 4-5k rpm then lots more power after that, well when my tach is actually working that is... (need to put stock valve cover gasket back in)

[rideOn]

I get a little bit of hesitation up around 4-5k rpm then lots more power after that, well when my tach is actually working that is... (need to put stock valve cover gasket back in)

I had the same symptoms around that engine speed. I also had some major decel popping. I just re-built the carbs with a soak and new o-rings. Have not put them back on to see the improvement yet. I'm waiting on new gasket and o-rings for the cam chain tensioner and tach fitting at the engine.

I had previously sealed the airbox up with rubber sealant and the needles were already shimmed, so i'm hoping for the best. Just have to wait and see and go from there.

[haggis905]

Not to highjack the thread, but my 79' 1000S has a Vance & Hines 4-into-1 and the original jets. I know that I need to rejet the vm carbs since I can't find original pipes, but can anyone tell me whether the main jet for the vm carb is the same as for the cv carbs? I have been looking for some time and cannot find any information.

TIA

[doctorgonzo]

My DJ kit for the 1000G was a stage 1/3. I haven't used any of the stage 1 jets, so I too have some thrown in a drawer.

[Steve]

While everyone is on the subject got any links to pictures of this needle valve spacer adjustment stuff?

Just so you know, ... it's not the needle valve that gets "spaced".

The needle valve is what allows gas to get into the float bowl. What you are asking about is the jet needle, that long thing that sticks out the bottom of the slide. To adjust that, you need to remove the slides (might not have to remove the carbs from the bike, if you're lucky), then remove the circlip that is down at the bottom. Sears offers a set of 5 1/2" needle-nose pliers that work well for this (about $10). Carefully remove the nylon post that the circlip was holding, then push the needle up from the bottom. You will see a little e-clip at the top, with a thick nylon spacer (~4mm) above it and a thin metal washer and a spring below it. The spring pushes up on the needle, so you need to adjust the thickness of the nylon spacer if you want to raise the needle. Find the washers that fit the needle AND slide down the hole, see how many of them equal the thickness of the spacer, then cut that number in half. Re-assemble, install the slide/diaphragm, ride. On the BS (CV) carbs there will be no need to re-sync the carbs, as you did nothing with the throttle linkage.

.

[rideOn]

You will see a little e-clip at the top, with a thick nylon spacer (~4mm) above it and a thin metal washer and a spring below it. The spring pushes up on the needle, so you need to adjust the thickness of the nylon spacer if you want to raise the needle.

It looked like, by the order you're saying, my bike's P.O. moved the OEM spacers to below the e-clip and replaced them with thin washers on top of the e-clip.

So, the way it should be, from the top down, is the new spacer/washer, the e-clip, a metal washer and the spring on bottom.

[Steve]

If you only have a thin metal washer above the e-clip, your needles are already "shimmed" or raised, and about the equivalent of 1.5 notches.

I see in one of your previous posts that you mentioned "airbox", so I presume that's somewhat standard and in place. You still have stock exhaust? If so, you may want to lower your needles a bit. Maybe to a point that would be about one thin washer above stock. This would be about the equivalent of raising it about 1/2 a notch, richening the mid-range just a bit. Do you still have the nylon washers there, too?

How do your plugs look? If your needles are raised that much, you will notice some rich running and possible reduced gas mileage, along with darker plugs.

.

[Steve]

While everyone is on the subject got any links to pictures of this needle valve spacer adjustment stuff?

Just so you know, ... it's not the needle valve that gets "spaced".

The needle valve is what allows gas to get into the float bowl. What you are asking about is the jet needle, that long thing that sticks out the bottom of the slide. To adjust that, you need to remove the slides (might not have to remove the carbs from the bike, if you're lucky), then remove the circlip that is down at the bottom. Sears offers a set of 5 1/2" needle-nose pliers that work well for this (about $10). Carefully remove the nylon post that the circlip was holding, then push the needle up from the bottom. You will see a little e-clip at the top, with a thick nylon spacer (~4mm) above it and a thin metal washer and a spring below it. The spring pushes up on the needle, so you need to adjust the thickness of the nylon spacer if you want to raise the needle. Find the washers that fit the needle AND slide down the hole, see how many of them equal the thickness of the spacer, then cut that number in half. Re-assemble, install the slide/diaphragm, ride. On the BS (CV) carbs there will be no need to re-sync the carbs, as you did nothing with the throttle linkage.

.

[rideOn]

I have the factory airbox and have sealed every hole and crack that I could see. There is a 4-1 exhaust.