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83 GS750E rebuild thread.

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    #16
    bike has a box frame, round headlight, clipon style handle bars with about an inch of rise. the clipons are just held on at the fork legs, no screw into the top tripple clamp. mono shock. im uploading pictures now. ill post them when i get a chance

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      #17
      Originally posted by piester View Post
      bike has a box frame, round headlight, clipon style handle bars with about an inch of rise. the clipons are just held on at the fork legs, no screw into the top tripple clamp. mono shock. im uploading pictures now. ill post them when i get a chance
      Hey definitly sounds like a 83 ,some one must have taken off the fairing and the square head light and put round one on.The silver and blue paint is 1983.Dont worry i need help posting pics too.Go to statistics on my page go to post on 12-4-09 "83 gs 750 e" theres some pics of my bike.
      Last edited by Guest; 01-25-2010, 11:13 PM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by piester View Post
        on the plus side it came with a kerker 4-1 exhaust and a dead snake under the seat.
        Just a mild suggestion of poetic justice. Ever thought about snake skined seat?

        In regards to the vacume VS. manual petcocks;
        I'm not really sure, but from what I have learned. You are right about not having to shut it off.

        And....

        If you are finding gas in the crankcase its because the petcock has a bad diaphram behind the petcock. So it wouldn't be working properly.
        Last edited by Guest; 01-25-2010, 11:57 PM. Reason: spelling

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          #19
          I would love a snake skin seat haha. I just cut my seat down about an inch or so and recontoured it. Then recovered it in black leather. As far as the petcock goes im getting a great deal on a pingel and adaptor plate. Brand new. 45ish all together. So that made my decision simple. I patched the exhaust up until i can afford a new header. May be getting one from a member here. Will post updates with pictures as soon as i get my camera working

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            #20

            Look sorta like this one?
            Dee Durant '83 750es (Overly molested...) '88 gl1500 (Yep, a wing...)

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              #21
              Yeah except mine doesnt have the front fairing. Mine has a round headlight. And i cant really see the bars good but mine has silver clipon style bars with about an inch of rise

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                #22
                Oh and mine has what apears to be factory suzuki decals on the gas tank

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                  #23
                  big update. got a set of carbs from chef with a fresh cleaning and rebuild. installed dynojet stage 3 kit as per the instructions. new battery, new battery cables. coil relay mod. extra ground from rr to batt neg terminal. repacked muffler. the bike runs. for the most part. i definetly need new carb boot o-rings (wich i ordered and are on their way). it has a small gas leak i havnt located yet. bike runs ruff. wont idle below about 2 grand. without wanting to die. will run wide open really good. part throttle seems to not work so well. but it runs good enough to do a burnout on my sidewalk haha. i did notice that the exhaust comming from cylinders 1 and 4 are scorching hot while 2 and 3 are barely warm. that leads me to the number 2-3 coil. any recomendations on adjustments to the carbs? or should i wait till i get the new orings?

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                    #24
                    Wait for the new o-rings and the pingle setup. Then tune.

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                      #25
                      Small update. Yanked the number 2 and 3 plug wires off while it was running. No change at all. Then when i was putting the number 3 plug wire back on it started firing. Hm. So maybe its the caps i thought. Took the caps off and yanked the plugs out. Cleaned and gapped the plugs. Took the brass screw, little block thing, and spring out of the plug wire caps cleaned and lightly sanded all of the contact points and put it back together. There was a black, carbon type buildup in it. Put them all back together and put them on the bike. Tried to start it and the starter stuck on and wouldnt shut off. Grrr

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                        #26
                        Your solenoid took a dump or the starter button is stuck.
                        Bummer
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #27
                          its gotta be my solenoid. the bike still cranks even thow the key is off and the killswitch is off. but lucky me the one from my 850 is the exact same one. so i will be swapping those, ripping the carbs off and making sure everything is tight to find that gas leak. waiting for my new orings to come in the mail. after all that ill see if rebuilding the plug caps helped. then maybe new coils.

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                            #28
                            i borrowed a digital ohm reader from a friend of mine and plan on testing my coils and caps. anything else i should test out? i also will be swapping out my starter solenoid since i suspect it is bad.

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                              #29
                              I have a good solenoid.
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                                #30
                                ok here are my ohm meter readings. forgive me for not being able to read one of these meters.
                                coil 1&4
                                plug cap to plug cap: .907 k ohms
                                plug wire to plug wire (no caps): .835 k ohms
                                conector to connector : 2.1
                                cap1: .817 k ohms
                                cap2: .783 k ohms


                                coil 2&3
                                plug cap to plug cap: .916 k ohms
                                plug wire to plug wire (no caps): .835 k ohms
                                connector to connector: 2.0 ohms
                                cap1: .853 k ohms
                                cap2: .910 k ohms

                                extra coil 1&4
                                plug wire to plug wire (no caps) : .810 k ohms
                                connector to connector: 2.1 ohms

                                extra coil 2&3
                                plug wire to plug wire (no caps) : .810 k ohms
                                connector to connector: 2.0 ohms


                                all of these readings were taken with the ohm meter dial set to the only one with the upside down u looking thing and with it on auto. with it on the setting that beeps when there is a connection the readings from connector to connector were the same but plug wire to wire showed as open. so what does this mean? cylenders 1&4 were firing and 2&3 wouldnt. the extra coils were from my 850 and the bike ran good when they were taken off. they have sat on a concrete shed floor all winter thow. any input? should i just snag some new coils? do new coild come with new caps? thank you for any help

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