83 GS750E rebuild thread.

[tejasmud]

The anti-dives can be disconnected and capped off, or block off plate made. Not much involved.

I would rebuild the calipers, new pads, rebuild the master cylinder or just buy a new one, get rid of those stock rubber brake lines and convert to braided lines, block off the anti-dive or fix it, flush and change the fork oil 15wt, change the fork seals if needed, and possibly go with progressive springs.

Bleed the brakes and adjust the front suspension preload "without air," and be done with it.



Same as the 700E.

[67fire]

Yeah!
Another one back from the dead!




Eric

[piester]

yeah. im lookin at the brakes on my 850. and they seem to be the same as the brakes on the 750. so maybe ill just swap callipers and see where that gets me.

[chef1366]

The carbs are a rack that Saltymonk sort of discarded to my care and I rebuilt them with some spare stuff I had laying around.

[piester]

nice. all the bodies were in good shape. i put a dj3 in it. everything was clean and in good shape. so im not complaining. a lot of my stuff is made from spare parts. including the laptop im typing this on haha

[Smokinapankake]

As far as the anti dive goes, I'd consider putting in progressive springs. I don't think the stock springs were designed to hold these bikes without the anti dive; if its disabled the forks will bottom on hard stopping. At least thats how my old Kawi GPz 750 was....

Yer springs are prolly all softened up and need to be replaced anyway.

[piester]

yeah thats true. i dont know if i can afford new springs at this time thow

[piester]

Does anyone see a problem with me putting the whole front brake system from my 850 onto my 750? Its an 81 gs850g going on to an 83 gs750e. The brakes worked spectacularly well

[67fire]

Someone may tell me that I am wrong but, I believe that you would have to also
change the triple clamp from the 850 also as the fork tubes are larger. (?)

Eric

[chef1366]

How are you going to stop the 850?

[piester]

Im not gonna use the fork tubes. Just the calipers. Pads. Lines. Master cyl. And i think thats it. And as far as stopping the 850 i dont think im gonna ride her anymore. Way too much work. Needs an airbox. Exhaust. Tires. I think i sold the carbs. And so on haha

[Clone]

If you put a spacer into the tube above the stock spring you don't have to run air, I understand you need a spacer above the progressive as well. Try the stock spring with say a 1.5-2" spacer( I like the forks a little stiff) with a 15 or 20w fork oil. If you bleed out the front lines well, your brakes should improve in feel. Otherwise you can just disconnect the lines to the dive units and put a cap on them like some others have done so that the forks keep the stock look. When I changed the fork oil I rebuilt the dive units they were gunky and then worked freely.

[Steve]

I don't think the stock springs were designed to hold these bikes without the anti dive; if its disabled the forks will bottom on hard stopping.

Please don't kid yourself here.
Anti-dive mechanisms don't hold up the front of the bike.
They don't replace proper springs.
They aren't magic.
Your bike will still drop the front when the brakes are applied, it just won't do it so quickly.

If you put a spacer into the tube above the stock spring you don't have to run air, I understand you need a spacer above the progressive as well. Try the stock spring with say a 1.5-2" spacer( I like the forks a little stiff) with a 15 or 20w fork oil.

Yes, you will likely need a preload spacer with just about any springs you use. The way to determine the size is to measure the 'sag' of the bike. You will need a helper and a tape measure. Put the bike on the centerstand so the forks are fully extended. Measure from the bottom of the triple tree to the fender (or two points along the fork tube) and record it. Take the bike off the stand, sit on it, put as much of your weight on it, so it settles into the position it will be in while riding. Have your helper measure the same place. Record it and subtract the two readings. Your target is to have the bike 'sag' no more than 20-25% of the available travel. Most of our bikes have about 6", so you are shooting for 1 to 1.5" of 'sag'. If you have more than that, you will need to add at least that much to the existing spacer.

Some will also recommend cutting some of the tightly-wound coils from the fork springs and adding a spacer to match that length. Shortening the springs will raise the rate a bit, which will help, too.

About fork oil viscosity: I have read tuning tips from racers who agree that you should use the lightest oil that will do the job. The purpose of the oil is to dampen the movement of the fork. Thicker oil will just slow down the movement. If you choose oil that is too thick for your application based on somebody's say-so, you may find an uncomfortable ride because every little ripple just gets passed right up the forks, instead of getting soaked up by the springs. Even with my heavy bike and my ... ahem ... modestly increased gravitational attraction, I use 10w oil in my forks. Granted, they are probably valved differently, but 10w works for me.

.

[piester]

heres my plan so far. put her on the road. remove antidive lines but leave antidive in place until i can fix. put new front tire on. tune carbs more and more and then more. synch carbs also. maybe adjust the valves a bit better. i think they are too loose. um. maybe get my turn signals to work. oh and most importantly... ride the **** off of it.

would the springs and spacers from my 850 forks be interchangable with these?

[piester]

ok so i worked on her a bit tonight and took her for a ride. this is what i have concluded. i need to check my valves again. they are a bit loud. i need new plug wires and caps. they ground out i believe. some cylinders will only fire when the plug caps are on a certain way. its got a dead spot when i take off, then it kicks in. i believe its lean in the midrange, i think i need to make the needle a bit richer. um. i think thats it. hows my logic sound? oh and i put my new header on with no midpipe and just put the muffler on. when its firing on all 4 it sounds amazing. also i disconnected the anti dive and bled the brakes. seem to work a bit better. kinda spongy thow.