-Theo
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Cleaning female threads
Collapse
X
-
Theo
Cleaning female threads
I searched google and I searched this site but didn't find an answer to my question. I've been making great progess cleaning all the little bits of rust off of all the various parts, but I haven't quite figured out how to clean the rust from female threads. For little things like nuts, I can put that in a container of evapo-rust but I have things on the frame that can't be removed. Is there some sort of trick that I don't know about. Or should I just leave it and put some anti-seize on the male threads. Thanks.
-TheoTags: None
-
Macguyver
How to make your threads, well, bare.
There are more than a few ways to clean female threads, my favorite is to use a small spray gun cleaning brush with some penetrating fluid.
Spray the inside of the threaded area, let it sit overnight to soak into all of the rust, then push the brush in all the way, and then "unscrew" the brush out of the hole. Repeat as needed, but most times it gets the threads clean on the first or second go. Just a quick blast with some brake clean afterwards to clean out any residue, and you are done.
I have also used pipe cleaner to do this, but a stiff bristle "mini bottle brush" type brush works best IMO since it scrubs the threads more.
You could also run a tap into the threads to clean them, then blow out the spoil from the tap with compressed air. Care must be taken when using this method to make sure you have the right tap, and don't cross thread it when starting it. Doesn't work so well in blind holes. (holes that don't go all the way through the material)
Best of luck, and feel free to ask if you have any more questions!
-
Depending on the size of the hole and what is crudding up the threads, Mac's suggestions are right on. I have also been known to use some carb spray, brake cleaner, WD-40, just about any solvent (depending on the material) that has a bit of pressure behind it to blast it clean. A very small wire wheel in a Dremel tool works well, too, if the hole is large enough. If you are trying to clean out a "blind" hole, you can also get some bottoming taps. They have cutting edges farther down the edges to clean out the threads just a little deeper. They are not so good for cutting new threads as they are not tapered enough, but they are great for cleaning out blind holes.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35698
- Torrance, CA
Don't forget about running a tap though the threads too.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13994
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
if you don't have a tap you can cut a slot in a bolt (just deeper than the threads) at 90 degrees to the thread (i.e. straight up the bolt from tip towards the head) & then use it like a tap.
Will not work to tap a thread but for cleaning them out (rust, messy thread, Powder or paint residue) it works fine.
Poor man's tap I guess... The bonus with this is it's quite hard to b*gger up the thread further which is not the case with a tap.
Dan1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
Comment
-
Good idea Salty... some thread gauges have such a slot machined into them, to pick up chips/debris as they screw on. For a complete bike restoration, it is worthwhile, IMHO, to spring for a metric tap & die set, even a cheap-ish one from Harbor Freight/Princess Auto to chase/re-tap crusty hardware everywhere on the bike, along with liberal use of WD-40 / 3-in-1 oil etc. These sets are often on sale for $25 to $30, and work fine for this purpose, but have an apparent lifespan of exactly 2 1/2 uses before chipping out, if used to machine new threads in any material harder than cheese.'82 GS1100E
Comment
-
oldgrumpy
cleaning internal threads.........
you can actually buy a thread chaser for internal threads,, they are not that expensive....any good engineering supplies may sell them...regards david
Comment
-
Theo
Awesome guys. That answers all of my questions and then some. So it seems pretty straight forward, just got to have the right tools. I'll head to the hardware store tomorrow and see what I can pick up. Thanks for all of the great info.
-Theo
Comment
-
jakeolsen
You can also just buy brushes. I use these at work all the time for our Caterpillar military service centers. They clean every bit of everything out of the threads. Most of the time there is no need for a tap. Although, I would have to say you really can't beat a tap with a little wd40 to clean up a thread on a hole that goes through all the way. Just make sure to blow it out with air after in any case.
P.S. the brushes look like this, and can be had in various sizes.
Comment
-
Grease the right size tap and away you go.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
These things work great; If you buy a box of 36 they are about $1 a piece.
The bristles never come out; they will bend first. The plastic handle means you can really apply some pressure. When A/C stripper would not remove the final bits of powder coat off my 3 spoke wheels, I used the SS brush to bush out the last bits. Tedious but did not have to media blast and got the wheels about as clean as possible.
Comment
-
TheCafeKid
Guys I'm not sure that having threads about women that clean or lack thereof is really a good... Ohhhh I see now. Heh.
Comment
Comment