Breather screen/rear wheel dragging

[Iommiguy]

Hey guys, I was just checking my valve clearances today for the first time on my '80 GS850L and when removing the breather cover I noticed that one of the metal screens was missing from underneath it. I guess the previous owner lost it at some point. Do I need it? Could/should I put a piece of steel wool in there or something?

Also, my rear wheel appears to be dragging more than I think it should. It's difficult to move the bike by pushing it, especially if there is any kind of incline at all on the road, and especially compared with other (non GS) bikes. When I put the bike on its center stand, I'm able to turn the rear wheel but it stops spinning virtually right away after I let go. Is this just the way GS motorcyles are? If not, I'm assuming my rear caliper may be bad? Although my rear brake appears to function normally, otherwise. Do I need to get a rear caliper rebuild kit with the new rubber pieces? Could it be anything else?

Thanks!
John

[Redman]

rear drag.
First verify that problem is the rear brake caliper by prying apart the brake pads with tire iron or big screw driver. There is a palstic cover on top of caliper that gives better access to to this. Then see if wheel turns better, if so, then, yep that is your problem. If not, then prtoblem is bearings or something, not likley but check it.

If proiblem is brake caliper, yah, needs to be rbuilt, probably junk built up in the cyclinder/psiton. Can try first to free it up by operating the piston back by hand (pry or c-clamp) but do check resivor level while doing this or it may overflow. Exercize pads back, then pump back with lever. Do that a few times, misght free it up. Or moslt likley may need a complete rebuild.

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[bwringer]

The rear wheel on a shaftie won't spin free like a chain drive bike, but it definitely shouldn't be hard to push at all.

[SqDancerLynn1]

It's normal for a shafty

[Redman]

A shaft drive rear wheel will not spin easliy by hand (*), but you should be able to push bike around without too much difficulty. Yes, I should have stated it that way before.

Try prying the rear brake pads apart, see if that makes it easier to push around.

When I first got this 1100GK, I could not get it off the trailer (and I was out in freezing rain, so I remember it well). The rear caliper was grabbing so much. One little twist with the flat tip end of a tire iron between the rear brake pads and that released the brake enough that it rolled around like I was expecting - untill next time hit the rear brake . . . . .

* well, unless ..... ah, nevermind ... that is a completly different subject. BUt if you have the rear wheel off, let us know, then can mention something else you should know.

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[Iommiguy]

Ok thanks, I will try that with the caliper tomorrow when I get some free time. I'm getting gas mileage in the high 30's which I think is low? Maybe this is why. Thanks for the help! Does anybody have any advice for that missing metal screen in the breather cover?

[Redman]

...
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.... Does anybody have any advice for that missing metal screen in the breather cover?

Have seem that mesh stuff in there. Never had the expereince of having it missing or having to replace it.

But I would be concerned about putting in any steel wool (that would most likley be finer / thinner) and subject to rusting and breaking up and getting into the cams and engine oil YIKES !
Unless you know of some courser stainless steel like that.

Here is part description for original microfische (AlphaSport, 80 850GL), and updated part number and price, so it looks like is still avaialble.

I always asssume that on most any project am gonna be making a parts list and order some parts at some point, weiter I was expecting it or not.

I would say that 34x110 is dimensions.

9 11186-45000 SEPARATER, OIL (34x110)

Part# 11186-45001Desc SEPARATOR,OIL BUSD Price 4.05