I'm really not asking whether I should use a tube or not, just if anyone had this much trouble seating a tire while using a tube. I already scrubbed the rim clean, inflated and checked the tube for holding pressure and defects before inserting in the tire and mounting....open to suggestions??
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
tire bead not seating
Collapse
X
-
tire bead not seating
I searched threads but didn't quite match up my problem. I have a new Duro tubeless tire I'm mounting on the '78 GS1000 cast rim (not marked tubeless). Old tire had a tube, so I am re-using, but one side of the bead (about 18") just won't seat in place. I've deflated and inflated 5 times, using plenty of lube, but it still won't seat along the same spot. My next plan was to get a tubeless valve, ditch the tube, and try it that way to see if it seats and holds pressure. I've used up to 70lbs pressure, bounced the tire on the concrete floor, used a ratchet strap, etc...with no luck. Could the tire be defective?
I'm really not asking whether I should use a tube or not, just if anyone had this much trouble seating a tire while using a tube. I already scrubbed the rim clean, inflated and checked the tube for holding pressure and defects before inserting in the tire and mounting....open to suggestions??Tags: None
-
If the non-seating area is always where the stem (valve) is, the inside part of the stem, the mushroom shape, is stuck between the bead and the rim, and needs to be pushed back into the rim while the tube is barely inflated, so that it doesn't wedged in between the rim and bead. If the spot you mention is sort of random, the so is this post!!sigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
'58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
'67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
'71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
'66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
'73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
'78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
'81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
'81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
'82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current
-
It's obviously a defective bike and will continue to give you constant grief.
Please allow me to relieve you of your burden, I will 'dispose' of it properly.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35624
- Torrance, CA
I've experienced this problem before with a cheap Dunlop 404. Only thing I can suggest is to use real tire lube and maybe try rotating the tire a little.
Good luckEd
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
-
almarconi
I would start by using a new tube and making sure the tire is warm. Use a heat gun to warm the tire. Try rotating the offending section of bead to another part of the rim. You should not need 70 psi to seat a bead, especially a tube tire. I've seated tubeless tires with less than 50 psi. Use a solution of murphys oil soap/water or tire lube for lubrication. I usually put some baby powder inside the tire before I install the tube.
The tire could be defective, do you have another tire you could try mounting on the rim? I would also inspect the rim to make sure it is not damaged or out of round.
Comment
-
If your using slow air like a cheap electric pump find a friend with a good compressor or a gas station.
I use dish soap and make sure it is warm.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
lurch12_2000
Thanks for the suggestions. Follow up:
I already use the Murphy's oil soap and water solution for my lube. The rest of the bead seats properly with only 50 lbs pressure but I went to 70 lbs to see if it would pop that final section. Didn't want to go any higher. The first 2 times I inflated it, I used the local gas station air pump which is as quick and strong as you'll get. I got tired of making trips to the gas station, so I borrowed a neighbor's good portable air compressor (Bostitch 2hp, 135psi) and it's in my 60 degree basement where I'm working on the tire mounting.
I'll have to take one side of the tire off and pull out the tube to try rotating the tire since it's next to impossible to rotate it with a tube in it. I was also trying to keep the yellow mark aligned with the valve stem, but at this point, I'll just have to use the weights when I balance it (if I ever get there? ).
I do have an almost new spare tube, that I could try also. But I may just wait til I can pick up the tubeless valve tomorrow and try that method. I've already perused the posts debating the pros/cons of going tubeless on a rim not marked tubeless!Last edited by Guest; 01-24-2010, 09:34 AM.
Comment
-
Take it to a motorcycle shop and have them try. It's not like they have to do much and they might give you a break.
But I have a front tire on my yamaha that isn't straight. Doesn't affect the ride or handling as I have no shimmy but looks bad. I think because it's a cheap chen shin. There are only 2 or 3 companies that still make this tire so I'm going to go to the dunlop and bite the bullet. At least on the front it will last a long time.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35624
- Torrance, CA
I like the heat idea. Not sure how you can heat up the tire back in NH though. Maybe set it against your furnace for half an hour?Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
-
lurch12_2000
I considered just putting it back on the bike and taking it out for a test drive, but it's 2 degrees outside with blowing snow and ice everywhere! Besides, that 18" inch section of bead that's not seating on one side is almost 3/8" off when I measure from rim to the molding line on the tire, as compared to everywhere else. Too far off for me to feel comfortable test riding!
It's been in a 60 degree basement but maybe I will try heating with a hair dryer, if all else fails. I will also check on DennisKirk's return policy, just in case!
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35624
- Torrance, CA
I'd try heat the entire tire to 100F or so. Got two hair driers? Three? Space heater?Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
-
Jagir
Get one of those ratcheting tie-down straps (the kind that you use to tie a Harley into the back of a pick up).
With the tube deflated and the tire on the rim, run the tie-down around the tire and link the strap to itself.
Start gently ratcheting the tie-down, trying to squeeze the tire in the centre (so the pressure squeezes the tire towards the rim and the sidewalls outwards).
Don't go too crazy, and keep an eye on the hooks of the tie-down - you don't want them gouging your tire or flipping off into your face. Also, ensure that the strap is squeezing evenly around the tire, not just under the ratchet.
Inflate incrementally. Use a rubber mallet to convince the tire to seat, especially in the spots where it is not seating properly.
Of course, use lots of lube. I use a bar of soap in a dish with a bit of water and a toothbrush to apply it.
take lots of breaks.
This method worked for me after 2 or 3 tries on the most stubborn tire.
Good luck
Comment
-
almarconi
I think the 60 degree temperature is not helping matters. When I change tires, I usually let them sit in the sun for a couple hours before mounting them. Find some way to warm the tire or just wait until the weather is warmer.
Comment
-
lurch12_2000
Well, finally had success. In an effort to let people know what finally works when there is a problem, here it is. Before my last ditch effort of trying a tubelss setup, I pulled one side of the tire off, pull out the tube, rotated the tire on the rim 180 degrees, re-inserted the tube, lubed up the beads, started with the "bad" side, sliding the tire bead back on, took one final check for alignment and inflated to 50psi....BINGO...the tire seated all around as it should...FINALLY. Put it back to 40 psi, will balance it again since I wound up with the yellow mark opposite of the valve stem....and then put it back on the bike tomorrow and start on the rear wheel. And I was still working in the same 60 degree temp basement, even though that was not a bad suggestion.
..btw, DennisKirk's tech support was helpful, and perfectly willing to exchange the tire with no shipping charge if I couldn't resolve the issue.
Comment
Comment