forgot to bench sync, idiot....

[waterman]

You're saying to just try and crank it over even without benching it?
If i can get the bike to idle somewhat, will a vacuum sync over-ride everything so i don't have to go back and bench it?

What should I do with the Choke when starting the bike up for the first time?


But yes, i just bought a brand new carb sync kit, so that's ready to go.

The vacuum snych is going to be more precise than the bench synch. Essentially, the bench sync is to get the motor to run, the vacuum synch will tune the carbs to the engines demands.

Go ahead and "choke" the engine to start, most likely will not start otherwise.

Typically, I will get engine up to operating temp and then go about a vacuum synch while running a fan to help cool engine. I think for the 650 they recommend 1750 rpm engine speed for vacuum sync.

[renobruce]

Reno: Nah, i didn't touch the screws at all. But i remember the butterflys being pretty close to the bottom, i do remember shinning a flashlight and seeing alittle light coming thru the bottom, but I still think they may be alittle tight!

Screwing in the idle knob opens them up.

[chef1366]

You also need to make sure the main idle adjustment has the butterflies open a wee bit so air can enter the carb throat.

[1_v8_merc]

Alrite guys, im having trouble getting her to fire up, it just keeps cranking.

I've got my tank on a seperate stand with extended fuel lines.
I think I have the tank high enough, since it's gravity fed. I have a secondary fuel filter installed, and i can see the fuel bubbling and moving down the line.

I have the choke wide open.
I turned the main Idle adjustment knob underneath the carbs In a little bit.
I also turned the Air Screws out about 1 1/2 turns.
(im having a problem with the 4th screw, it's stuck and stripped pretty bad, although last time I turned it, it was pretty loose, so hopefully it's alrite for now......)

Here's my main question guys.
How long does it take for enough fuel to get into the float bowls before you start getting the engine to run?

Because, i've been crankin it for a while now, and fuel keeps moving thru the filter, but it's not starting.

Should I try giving it some more throttle/gas or what?

[Steve]

Quoting from v8 merc, then responding:

I've got my tank on a seperate stand with extended fuel lines.
I think I have the tank high enough, since it's gravity fed.
Your remote tank should be about the same height as your standard tank.

I have a secondary fuel filter installed, and i can see the fuel bubbling and moving down the line.
If possible, get rid of the filter. You already have a filter on the petcock, nothing should be getting past that.

I have the choke wide open.
What are you calling "wide open"? I believe you have a lever under the left handgrip?
Lever to the RIGHT is the OFF position, where it should be when riding.
Pulling the lever to the LEFT engages the "choke" for starting.

I turned the main Idle adjustment knob underneath the carbs In a little bit.
I also turned the Air Screws out about 1 1/2 turns.
They are not "air screws", they are "Idle mixture adjustment screws" and should be turned out another turn. Start with them between 2 1/2 and 3 turns out. After the bike is warm, fine-tune them using the highest-idle method.

(im having a problem with the 4th screw, it's stuck and stripped pretty bad, although last time I turned it, it was pretty loose, so hopefully it's alrite for now......)

Here's my main question guys.
How long does it take for enough fuel to get into the float bowls before you start getting the engine to run?
If the carbs were TOTALLY DRY, maybe a minute, usually less.

Because, i've been crankin it for a while now, and fuel keeps moving thru the filter, but it's not starting.
As mentioned earlier, get rid of the filter, if possible.

Should I try giving it some more throttle/gas or what?
While trying to start the engine, especially if using the "choke", do NOT touch the throttle.

[renobruce]

Also make sure that your vacuum line from your petcock is hooked up, or plug the port at the carb and use prime on your petcock.

[renobruce]

indyjoel, looks like your thread has been hijacked!! Sorry about that.

[chef1366]

Yo V8 Mercury, start your own thread.

[indyjoel]

indyjoel, looks like your thread has been hijacked!! Sorry about that.

it's all good, no problem, more knowledge the better.

until my stiches heal I am not going near her.

[indyjoel]

also am waiting on a new reco set of carbs from a lovely person on the list.

They are the carbs with the vent hoses between the carbs, mine dont currently as the Suz dealer tells me some AUS carbs dont have the vent hoses

[Suzuki_Don]

also am waiting on a new reco set of carbs from a lovely person on the list.

They are the carbs with the vent hoses between the carbs, mine dont currently as the Suz dealer tells me some AUS carbs dont have the vent hoses

Don't believe them Joe. They'll tell you anything.

[skidMarkNZ]

joel ive got a spare set of carbs here, worked perfectly when i yanked em from the bike.

wouldn't be too bad shipping them from NZ 100 + shipping or something and you can have em... has the vent hoses you speak of.

[1_v8_merc]

Haha, sorry about jacking your thread, i swear i've never done that before
(usually it happens to me, more than often)

Well it looks like the air screw on carb # 4 is completely stuck,(therefor I cannot adjust **** now...) the threading is toast, and the Flathead grip is toast also! I really don't know if I'm going to be able to get it out guys!

The ONLY thing I can think of, is maybe take a dab of JB Weld and stick it to a screw driver, and press it on the screw till it sets hard, then give it a turn....
Or either that, just cut the outter aluminum around the air screw, till I can grip it with some pliers or something....

Anyone have any spare BS32SS carbs laying around?
(82 GS 650g)

Or anyone know where I can get one at?

[Steve]

Well it looks like the air screw on carb # 4 is completely stuck,(therefor I cannot adjust **** now...) the threading is toast, and the Flathead grip is toast also! I really don't know if I'm going to be able to get it out guys!

The ONLY thing I can think of, is maybe take a dab of JB Weld and stick it to a screw driver, and press it on the screw till it sets hard, then give it a turn....
Or either that, just cut the outter aluminum around the air screw, till I can grip it with some pliers or something....

Anyone have any spare BS32SS carbs laying around?
(82 GS 650g)

One method I have done with success is to use a large cut-off wheel in my Dremel tool to cut a slot down the 'tower' around the screw, then down far enough to cut a fresh slot in the top of the screw. If you cut the slot carefully down the 'tower', the screw will come out very nicely.

.

[1_v8_merc]

One method I have done with success is to use a large cut-off wheel in my Dremel tool to cut a slot down the 'tower' around the screw, then down far enough to cut a fresh slot in the top of the screw. If you cut the slot carefully down the 'tower', the screw will come out very nicely.

.

Ohhh okay yeah, i was already planning on cutting the tower down some, but i didn't think about just cutting a new slot, i didn't think i would be able to for some reason, i dont know wtf i was thinking, but yeah, thanks!
Im just going to do that, it's pretty much the only option.