I can get that screw out but first I'd do as Steve said and cut a new notch in the head and heat it up with a torch. I've gotten many buggered ones out that way.
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forgot to bench sync, idiot....
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I have some 32mm carbs. Which one do you need?
I can get that screw out but first I'd do as Steve said and cut a new notch in the head and heat it up with a torch. I've gotten many buggered ones out that way.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Don't shorten the tower any, just cut the slot.
I don't have any pictures of the process handy, but just get the screw aligned so the slot goes sideways,
if possible, then use the cut-off wheel to cut one slot that goes down the tower and into the top of the screw.
When you get the slot cut in the top of the screw, use a new screwdriver so it has a good, fresh tip.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Originally posted by Steve View PostDon't shorten the tower any, just cut the slot.
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1_v8_merc
Grrrr i still cant get the damn thing started.
The closest thing I got was one small Rumble out of the left exhaust pipe.
(i've been trying for hours)
I tried playing with the choke in all positions.
I tried the petcock switch in all positions.
Im definitely getting gas in the bowls, i checked.
Im getting spark, although the plugs were blacker than black, got them cleaned.
I took the air filter off just to make sure the filter wasnt clogged.
Hit it with some starter fluid, nothing!
I think this has got to narrow it down to Something right?
Maybe fuel pressure related?
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Im thinking it has to do with me not benching it before putting the carbs back on the bike?
But if I open the throttle alittle, that would give the same effect as if I DID bench them right?
(because it's allowing air in)
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1_v8_merc
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostI have some 32mm carbs. Which one do you need?
I can get that screw out but first I'd do as Steve said and cut a new notch in the head and heat it up with a torch. I've gotten many buggered ones out that way.
It's 32mm, BS32SS, 82 GS650g.
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Originally posted by 1_v8_merc View PostThe one that is giving me trouble is #4, it's the one that's furthest on the Rider's Right side.
It's 32mm, BS32SS, 82 GS650g.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Only two carb bodies left. A #2 and #3 for 750s and 850s.
Sorry1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Quoting V8 merc, then responding:
I tried playing with the choke in all positions.
No need to "play", just engage it fully. It may run higher than desired until you find the "sweet spot", but it will run.
I tried the petcock switch in all positions.
Use the PRIME position to fill the bowls, the set it to RUN. No need for other positions, unless the tank is almost empty.
Im definitely getting gas in the bowls, i checked.
Verified by pulling the drain plugs? Good.
Im getting spark, although the plugs were blacker than black, got them cleaned.
Black plugs show you are overly rich. Cleaning might not work in marginal situations like this. Get NEW plugs, put them in.
Once the bike is running well, you can put your cleaned plugs in and they should work OK.
I took the air filter off just to make sure the filter wasnt clogged.
Hit it with some starter fluid, nothing!
THROW THE STARTING FLUID AWAY!
Things can go wrong quickly with that stuff, and they are already wrong (or else the bike would be running), so it's not helping at all.
I think this has got to narrow it down to Something right?
Maybe fuel pressure related?
The only way to change fuel pressure is to raise or lower the fuel tank.
Keep your tank at the same level it would be installed on the bike.
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Im thinking it has to do with me not benching it before putting the carbs back on the bike?
But if I open the throttle alittle, that would give the same effect as if I DID bench them right?
"Benching" the carbs is the process of ensuring that they all open the same amount at the same time ("synchronizing" them, hence the term "bench sync"). If you do not have the idle speed adjustment set so the throttle blades are open a little bit, you will not be able to start the bike. If you have the "choke" engaged, opening the throttly by hand will defeat its effect, giving problems.
(because it's allowing air in)
When the "choke" is being used properly, it has its own air supply that mixes with its own fuel supply, providing a relatively proper mixture for starting a cold engine.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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1_v8_merc
Alrite guys, got it running!
I changed out the gas and put new plugs in it,.
(I guess the fresh gas I got was already on the brink of going bad, because i've left gas in the tank MUCH longer than that and never had starting problems.)
Tried starting it on Prime a few times, then switched it over to On, she fired RIGHT UP!
Still got some tweaking to do though, she seems to be running rich and the RPM's get really jumpy at random....and the right side of the engine sounds alittle louder than the left.(not quite clanky, but just alittle bit louder.)
But I haven't synced her yet, I have to work all this weekend, so i'll get around to it monday.
But other than that, she is purring really nice! Even without syncing the carbs yet, the bike STILL sounds a hell of a lot cleaner than it did before!
Thanks everybody for helping out, I learned alot!
(even though it was something simple and stupid in the end.)
Im just glad it wasn't anything major, that's all that matters.
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Is the "louder" side the clutch side?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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That's the clutch side.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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1_v8_merc
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostThat's the clutch side.
Oh well, doesn't really matter.
Once i get them synced, then i'll see what it sounds like and go from there.
It could just be a valve problem.....im practically expecting it.
I've already got a few oil leaks up around the valve cover area, and one coming out of the top of the exhaust pipe where it bolts onto the engine.
I don't mean to make the bike sound like a complete piece of ****, it really isn't, lol.
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mike_of_bbg
The clutch lever, cable and actuation mechanism are on the left. The actuator pushes a rod which goes through the engine to disengage the clutch pack on the right. So yes, the clutch is actually on the right side of the engine. On my GS550 I pour my oil in right onto the clutch disc pack
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