Well....its...running?

[exbellicus]

I disassembled the carbs today, one of them is currently soaking in dip, the other will replace it tomo morning. Quick question: I was not able to get the air adjustment screw to come out. Is this normal? Again: 80 GS450...Mikuni 34mm carbs

Another one: My carb float needles seemed to have a little damage near end of the needle. I have heard these needles should be replaced any time there is doubt they are perfect. Is this accurate and why?

Thanks for all the knowledge as always, you guys have been extremely helpful

Next on the list: valve adjustments!

[Steve]

If you could not get the adjustment screw out, the carb should NOT be in the dip.

There is a rubber o-ring around that screw that will get turned to mush.
You will now have a much harder time getting that mush out and the carb will not work right until you do.

Sorry you are having to "clean" your carbs again, but this just emphasizes the point that we keep trying over and over again,
do it right the first time, you will only have to do it once.


By the way, jwegman's view on valve adjustment is rather simplistic, but surprisingly accurate.
The valves control how much air is admitted into the cylinders and when. If the clearance between the cam (the bumpy stick that opens the valves) and the valve/shim/bucket assembly is not correct, the efficiency of the engine can be greatly reduced. If the clearance is neglected long enough to be reduced to zero, the valves can actually be damaged because they are not closing long enough to transfer heat to the cylinder head. This procedure is important enough that Suzuki recommends that it be done every 4,000 miles.

.

[exbellicus]

Just one is in the dip, so I'll go give the other another shot. I unscrewed it all the way and it seemed to just keep turning and turning

[exbellicus]

No luck yet, I tried pulling straight out with tweezers, prying, and pulling it out with a strong magnet. Any other ideas? There is what looks to be a sealed pin of some sort in the center of the mold between the air spring hole and the "blocked" hole that would be used if the carb was on the other side. Does that pin have any significance to getting this screw out? I tried pushing on it a bit, nothing.

Brett

[exbellicus]

I just took the first set out of the dip....wow! Just looking at them I can tell a huge difference from my "cleaning" the first time around.

Now if I could just get that air adjustment screw out....

[Larry D]

Can you post a picture ? I have a set of jeweler's screwdrivers which work well for removing the idle air/fuel screws.

If one is stubborn, I take the small set of vise-grips I have, clamp onto the screwdriver, place pressure on the screw and turn slowly. The vise-grips give some leverage when turning the screwdriver. I still have to be careful not to strip it, but, it's worked so far.

[exbellicus]

I'm at work, can post a picture about 4 today

[exbellicus]

Here is the screw and the pin in question

Here is the air screw


This is the pin that I'm not sure what it does...

[UncleMike]

Leave the pin alone.