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hard clutch 77 gs 550
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steveq
hard clutch 77 gs 550
hi guys, i was wondering if anyone can offer any help.ive just replaced the clutch actuator on my 77 550, the old one having been split, but the clutch lever is exessively hard to use, the lever will engage the clutch, its just very hard, would this be something to do with the clutch plates or springs? ive checked the cable and it moves freely. also, the clutch push rod? comes out of the actuator side and is about 4 inches long and 1/4 inch thick, in the parts manual, it seems to show that the push rod is longer than this. any info would be a great help as ive had her for 12 months and havent riden her yet!Tags: None
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jwegman
By 'clutch actuator', I think it's called release screw assembly in the parts fiche - the big white delrin thing where the clutch cable connects inside of the sprocket cover? (#25 in the part fiche):
If so, you may not have 'indexed' it correctly when screwing it into the sprocket cover (it's sticking out too much). It should screw in most of the way?
When installing the sprocket cover, did you have to 'force' it on when tightening the sprocket cover screws as if it were pushing on the clutch release rod?
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Larry D
1980 GS450S
1981 GS450S
2003 Heritage Softtail
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steveq
hi there, thanks for the advice- yes, the cover was firm when it was refitted, ill check it out, but ive got a feeling that there is more to it than that.when i purchased the bike, it had been sitting for many years in a sad state, the bloke i purchased it of was a "back yard mechanic" and supposedly had worked on it a bit to get it started. while ive been restoring the old girl, ive found many things that were done incorrectly including wiring, carbys etc, after reading your reply i examined the crank cover and have discovered that this has been removed at some stage as the retaining bolt heads have been mutilated in an attempt to remove the cover as well as this the oil seal holder is broken and the old release screw assy casing was split, indicating that there was a problem before i purchased the bike. im going to remove the clutch today and examine it for damage- could anyone give me an indictation as to what to look for? thanks heaps, steve
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Suzuki_Don
Steve, the clutch pushrod should be a one piece affair. If it's in two parts that could be your problem. Under normal circumstances the pushrod can only be withdrawn after the clutch has been disassembled. It does not come out the LH side of the transmission where the clutch actuating mechanism is. If the clutch is hard then look for stuck plates inside the clutch and generally follow the movement of the mechanism to see where the apparent stiffness is. Good luck.
BTW update your location so we know where in Australia you are. Australia is a big place. Also update your signature with your bike details.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
Most likely the actuation helix is out of phase with where it needs to be inside the cover. I'd take it out and move it to another position and see if that fixes the problem.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostMost likely the actuation helix is out of phase with where it needs to be inside the cover. I'd take it out and move it to another position and see if that fixes the problem.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by Nessism View PostMost likely the actuation helix is out of phase with where it needs to be inside the cover. I'd take it out and move it to another position and see if that fixes the problem.
While I'm on that point it does pay to have the workshop manual in the workshop, that's why it's called a WORKSHOP MANUAL. It's much more use there than in the house, living room, library, study,etc. The other option is to print out the relevant sheets from your electronic copy and throw away the dirty finger marked sheets when finished.
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Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostThis was covered in Post # 2 guys. Hopefully now that it's been mention three times in six posts he will make doubly sure he has checked it and even gone back to his manual to make sure he has done it the correct way.
While I'm on that point it does pay to have the workshop manual in the workshop, that's why it's called a WORKSHOP MANUAL. It's much more use there than in the house, living room, library, study,etc. The other option is to print out the relevant sheets from your electronic copy and throw away the dirty finger marked sheets when finished.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Suzuki_Don
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostThis was covered in Post # 2 guys. Hopefully now that it's been mention three times in six posts he will make doubly sure he has checked it and even gone back to his manual to make sure he has done it the correct way.
Just to be perfectly clear, I think the problem may be related to the indexing of the helix. What do you think?Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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steveq
thanks
thanks for all the advice guys, i feel confident enough to strip the clutch now,and now know what to look for, but first ill check the helix on the clutch release assy just in case thats all it is, ill post a reply on the outcome thanks heaps, steve
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Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostWhile I'm on that point it does pay to have the workshop manual in the workshop, that's why it's called a WORKSHOP MANUAL. It's much more use there than in the house, living room, library, study,etc.
Unfortunately my wife wouldn't allow it as the tyre marks might ruin the carpet, though I have suggested throwing the carpet out - I even pointed out that it would save her having to vacuum so often....79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by hampshirehog View PostDon - you've missed a very important alternative. Leave the manual in the house and bring the bike indoors....
Unfortunately my wife wouldn't allow it as the tyre marks might ruin the carpet, though I have suggested throwing the carpet out - I even pointed out that it would save her having to vacuum so often....
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