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Need jetting baseline please - RS34s on modded GS1000

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    #16
    I looked at the Sudco site and the RS34 & VM29's share the same main jet style which are the big round N100/604 main. The RS34 use a VM 28/486 pilot jet while the VM29 uses a VM22/210 pilot jet . . . could you possible have mixed jets which may explain why its running so rich with all those hi perf mods you have?

    I am higher up in altitude (5250 Ft) than you and have similar GS1000/1085, Andrews street cams, 4/1, but running VM29's and my main is several sizes larger than 117.5.
    Last edited by srsupertrap; 02-11-2010, 12:57 AM.
    Steve

    1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

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      #17
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      I find it hard to believe that you'd run mains that small with those big cams.
      We can pull the carbs off and you can have a look when you come up to Bruce's.
      I have the Andrews .394/.394 in it currently.

      Eric
      Last edited by Guest; 02-11-2010, 01:02 AM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by 67fire View Post
        We can pull the carbs off and you can have a look when you come up to Bruce's.

        Eric
        I was talking about Paul.
        I'm sure yours is jetted just right.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #19
          Dark exhaust at 1/4 throttle + is most likely the jet needle too rich.
          I assume the bike is at normal operating temps when testing? Not familiar with these carbs. Are the float levels set correctly? Air jets clear and correct size? Other than the main jet, pilot jet and jet needle position, do you KNOW all the remaining parts are correct and in good condition?
          And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
          Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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            #20
            Thanks for the help guys.

            Did a bit of c-c-cold 38 degree road testing / plug chops tonight with fresh Chevron juice/new plugs and 117.5 mains are too lean. Plugs were white and throttle response/acceleration was improved across the board by pulling out the choke. Next step...120 or 122.5 mains?
            Last edited by Guest; 02-17-2010, 02:48 AM.

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              #21
              I'll check and see what I have for jets.
              What did I send you before?
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #22
                I haven't read all the responses so you may have already gotten your answers. With my 34s I run 120 mains. Clips in the middle position just to get started and do some plug reads. You want the accelerator pumps to start opening at 1/4 throttle and shut sown at 3/4 throttle. Watch slide height for this. Use the allen headed adjusters to make adjustments. To set the mixture screws you don't have to disable the pumps, they only work above where you set them. You really have to learn to roll the throttle until you get through whatever gear you're in and hit redline. After that just keep it hammered. If you just whack them open at too low of an rpm you'll bog it.

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                  #23
                  First thing, lean the needle 1 clip position & go to the 122.5 mains. You may even need to go to the 125 mains after leaning the needle. You need to work on each area of the jetting one at a time so you KNOW how the changes you make are affecting the engine. Ray.

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                    #24
                    Jet needle and main jet adjustments depend on plug reads/performance at 1/5 to 3/4 throttle and 3/4 to full, respectively.
                    If your full throttle tests showed white plugs I doubt you're within a step (2.5) of correct main jetting.
                    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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                      #25
                      When you really get used to the the RS flatslides you can keep the rear tire breaking loose all the way to redline through 3rd gear on slick city streets. You can keep the rear wheel losing traction a bit to where the rear end will wag behind you. By the time you hit 4th you're moving so hard forward the traction settles down.

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                        #26
                        HOLY ....!!!

                        I put in a 125 main, left the needle on the third position and the bike felt a lot quicker and more responsive when riding down the street. Accelerator pump was off. Warmed up the tires and engine for a couple miles and then short-shifted 1st and 2nd gear off a stoplight. No hesitation or bogging at all off the line and much, much better acceleration so I gave it WOT in third. Had to grab the tank with my knees and hold on because we were in POWER WHEELIE CITY - in 3rd gear ! No wonder people love these carbs.

                        Thanks for all the help - still buzzing from the test ride. x 1000.
                        Last edited by Guest; 02-19-2010, 12:23 AM.

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                          #27
                          Now get the Accel pump set and it will be wheelie city.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                            #28
                            With the 125 mains, the bike pulls hard in the 1/4 to WOT throttle position. Plugs approach tan on the needle and mains. However, at idle with the 125s, it'll puff out black smoke when you blip the throttle at idle, even with the air screws turned almost all the way in.

                            With the 122.5 mains, it'll idle cleanly (no smoke) with the air screws turned 1/2 to 3/4 turns out and pull nicely up through the 1/4 throttle position. After that it feels and sound lean from 1/4 to WOT.

                            Should I lean out the pilots to 15 (17.5 is stock) and use the 125 mains? Or try richening the needles and use the 122.5 mains with the 17.5 pilots?
                            Last edited by Guest; 03-13-2010, 06:13 PM.

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                              #29
                              I set the main/needle and pilot in that order.
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                You might want to take a look at the o-rings on the needles and see how they look. You can clean up a rich condition adjusting the floats so less fuel is in the bowls. Mine was spitting rich at idle so I adjusted the floats and it cleaned it up without hurting the rest of the rpm range.

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