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    1150 removed antidive

    I had two anti-dives leak on me and none of the four settings ever felt different, so I removed them. I put a 1/4 thick plate of aluminum and homemade gasket. I dremeled a channel on the backside, so the fluid could pass through the two holes, but have no idea if that mattered or not.

    I took if for a spin, seems fine, no leaks and somehow the forks feel firmer, even with a lower preload. It does have aftermarket springs.

    Anyone see a problem with doing this?
    GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

    #2
    No problems with what you've done - loads of people do the same thing.
    79 GS1000S
    79 GS1000S (another one)
    80 GSX750
    80 GS550
    80 CB650 cafe racer
    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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      #3
      Originally posted by Carter Turk View Post
      I had two anti-dives leak on me and none of the four settings ever felt different, so I removed them. I put a 1/4 thick plate of aluminum and homemade gasket. I dremeled a channel on the backside, so the fluid could pass through the two holes, but have no idea if that mattered or not.

      I took if for a spin, seems fine, no leaks and somehow the forks feel firmer, even with a lower preload. It does have aftermarket springs.

      Anyone see a problem with doing this?
      As Hampshire said, many people have done the same. In order to keep mine looking OEM, I would use longer bolts and mount the antidive over the top of the plates. In fact the fork could be dremeled and so the 1/4" plate is not nessesary. Then to keep the brake lines , I have soldered the entrance holes for the fluid at the double banjo bolt. Use the dremel to open up the pin hole a little and the solder will flow in and wedge in the opening.

      Unless you want it to look stock what you did is fine so long as the channel is large enough. It is possible you increased the damping of the fork if that flow was not large enough. Sounds like it rides fine, so no worries. Use a tie starp on the fork to see how much of teh suspension travel you are using as well as to get a sag measurement. I have noticed it is braking which causes the most fork compression.

      See this thread for discussions on tuning.

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        #4
        Carter, I do it all the time with no issues. Ray.

        Comment


          #5
          Ray,

          Do you do anything to the plate or just block off the two holes all together? The channel I made on the back side is only 5/16'' wide and maybe 1/8'' deep, running center to center between the holes.

          Posplayer, the 1150 fork has no brake lines attached, just a separate mechanism attached to the outside of the fork, with two 3/8'' diameter holes, a spring loaded plunger thing and four notches of adjustment.

          Hampshirehog, thanks for the words of encouragement. Its a pretty crude plate made with a jigsaw, file and cheap drill press.
          GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

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            #6
            I have done it both ways Carter. Dragbikes I don't bother with the channel but I really don't feel any difference either way. Ray.

            Comment


              #7
              [QUOTE=Carter Turk;1157660]
              Posplayer, the 1150 fork has no brake lines attached, just a separate mechanism attached to the outside of the fork, with two 3/8'' diameter holes, a spring loaded plunger thing and four notches of adjustment.

              QUOTE]

              Oh I see the antidives on the 1150 were based on stroke. (I have an 1150 manual)

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