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stripped cam cap thread repair
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makr
Wow, that thread installation kit is cheap. Prolly perfect for a hobby kit.
I cant see how a 1/4 bolt will hold. The 6 mm is only .013 smaller. There are some bolts on your bike where you can cheat, and some you really, really shouldn't. Cam cap bolt seems one of those you shouldn't.
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Originally posted by Coady View PostThanks Guys.
And posplayr are you referring to the 1/4 inch self tapping bolt method as opposed to the helicoil?
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostNo more like this; There are others i just dont remember the name brands. Requires you drill a much larger hole and you may or may not have enough meat to drill that size out. The helicoil, requires a much smaller drill/tap size for the same size (e.g. 6x1mm), so even though the insert if "better" the helicoil is usually "good enough" and much less likely to drill into something where you go through or crack the surrounding area.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...VHKRV2JNEW8JS9
OK I get ya - I had seen those too and wondered. Thanks again.1979 GS750E
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Can't you just hit a local parts store and get these? I bought mine from Autozone.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by chef1366 View PostCan't you just hit a local parts store and get these? I bought mine from Autozone.
Fair point. But from my experience with auto parts stores in Australia, they generally haven't got a huge range of stock and more specialist items tend to be overpriced. I also find that with the exchange rate at the moment it's easier and cheaper to order from the US with non-urgent items (except for Bike bandit which has absurd international postage fees).1979 GS750E
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1/4-20 fix will hold 400+ horsepower.........
not the correct fix but what do you do when your at the track and your threads pull out when working on the valve train?
the smaller the heli coil the more of a pain in the a$$ it is to install.
either way...
1/4-20 will be around for a long time and when done right will last the life of your bike.
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Originally posted by blowerbike View Post1/4-20 fix will hold 400+ horsepower.........
not the correct fix but what do you do when your at the track and your threads pull out when working on the valve train?
the smaller the heli coil the more of a pain in the a$$ it is to install.
either way...
1/4-20 will be around for a long time and when done right will last the life of your bike.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by blowerbike View Postwhat do you do when your at the track and your threads pull out when working on the valve train?
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Don-lo
A 1/4-20 bolt is a strong, reuseable fix, but you will need to tighten by feel, not torque wrench (just snug it up). More importantly, prevent the stripped threads by GETTING THE OIL OUT OF THOSE HOLES!
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While I might understand swapping to a SAE bolt for a valve cover bolt, I don't understand swapping to a larger 1/4 bolt thatdoesnt have the same stretch characteristic of the original metric bolt. As has been discussed here (on GSR) the accuracy of the bolt tension is related to the thread pitch and stretch characteristics. It is difficult enough to get the torque correct using a wrench, but mixing in different bolts can't help.
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