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1984 Suzuki gs1100 shifting problem
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Originally posted by crpowell08 View Post1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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SqDancerLynn1
Weather you have a 4 valve GS 750,8501100,1100 or a 16 valve GS1100/1150 the clutches are very similar For your bike It sounds like you have a 1100 shaft drive. Would probably be refered to a GS1100GK at least in the states. Look on Cliff's web site for a manual
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When sitting on the bike, its under right leg. Big and flat with a lever on the top. If it has a lever on top, the cable needs to be detached, by removing the cotter pin on the end. If the bike is rolled up on 2 by lumber, and resting on the side stand, the oil doesn't need to be drained, otherwise drain oil from plug under engine.
When removing the cover, take a piece of cardboard and draw the cover and place the bolts in their proper place, as they are different lengths. One at 3:00 oclock has a rubber washer on it. Once the cover is off, 6 10mm bolts will need to be removed. Loosening sequentially or in a criss cross fashion. Springs and spacers are loaded behind the bolts. Once all those are out, the inner clutch hub can be removed. Then all the clutch plates will be visible. These need to be kept in order, fiber, steel, fiber, steel when removed. The last can stay, as it's held in with piano wire.
The large nut in the center of the clutch hub has a lock washer that needs to be bent down with a flat head screwdriver in order to remove the nut. The hard part is finding a way to hold the basket while removing the nut. Maybe you'll get lucky and the nut will be loose.
I think the nut is 22mm. Impact sockets are cheapest. Once that is off, a large spacer with two 6mm holes in the middle of the basket, next to the shaft needs to come off. You can use two of the longer clutch cover bolts to thread in the spacer. Pull the spacer out, while holding the basket and be careful not to damage the roller bearing around the spacer. A little tilt while removing the basket will allow it to clear the engine cases.
Once the basket is out, you'll see a forked spring at the bottom left hand corner. The shaft coming out of the spring goes through to the shift lever on the other side of the engine, under the cover Chef mentioned. Good luck with wrenching and tell us how it goes.
An aside, there is another small spring only accessible through the oil pan cover which is under the engine. It hooks to the case webbing and the shift drum. My friend broke his and we only discovered it after splitting the entire engine apart. His 750ES stopped shifting altogether and this $2 spring was the only culprit.GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
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