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    Shorter Throttle Cables etc...

    Hello,
    I put on different(clubmen) handlebars, and im left with a lot of extra cable length getting in the way and looking cluttered. How do you go about fixing this? The extra cable length kindof defeated the prupose of the new bars,
    Thanks
    DG

    #2
    Install shorter cables?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

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      #3
      You orta be ashamed Ed, but you are right. Suzuki made a GS450"S" (not sure what year)that was a "sportier" model. It had lower bars & shorter cables. Just my opinion.
      1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks, i mean when i look for cables of a shorter length how do i know if the cables are compatible? Or is a throttle cable a throttle cable and a clutch cable a clutch cable etc...
        Do you mean I should just order OEM cables for a 450S, thatd be easy,

        Thanks!
        Last edited by Guest; 02-17-2010, 12:12 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Most of the GS bikes (maybe all of them) use the same ends for the throttle cable. The clutch cables use two ends that I know of, it depends on whether the lower end of the cable is on the left or right side of the bike.

          "Choke" cables, on the other hand, well, there's a bunch of them. The early ones came up through the steering stem, but I have seen at least two diameters at the knob end. Starting in '82, they moved the activation point to a thumb lever under the left grip. They also changed how the cable attached to the linkage on the carbs, so both ends of the cable are different.

          For the shorter cables you are looking for, look for one of the smaller bikes that came in a "sporty" version, like the 450S that was suggested. For newer versions, maybe the 650 Katana. Definitely stay away from cables for any of the "L" models.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
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            #6
            I had to have custom cables made for my GS since it uses HD style handlebar controls and they are 12" longer. I sent the original cables to Barnett and they built them for me. They work and look great.
            Since yours are correct on both ends you could shorten them. Should be able to heat the ball on one end and remove it, then pull the cable out. Then carefully remove the steel cap on the end of the sheeth and cut the excess length off. Carefully reinstall the cap, maybe superglue it if need be. With some sharp diagnals cut the excess cable from the end you removed the ball from. Insert the cable back into the sheeth and solder the ball back on.

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              #7
              Someone here in the Performance forum said flanders will make up cables of any length for cheap. I've used both 550M and 1000S cables on several bikes with good results. The 450S cables may work as well but I have no experience with them.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                #8
                Which version of the 450 do you have? I have an "E" and I think the "s" version is the same just with fairing and bar end mirrors. I could compare lengths on my e if you like. Give me a PM if you need me to measure. I just looked up the S and E versions. They have different bars and cables

                Charlie G.
                Last edited by Charlie G; 02-17-2010, 10:30 PM.
                sigpic
                83 GS1100g
                2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050

                Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren

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                  #9
                  Thanks, i have a 450L. I want to put in steel brake lines while Im at it, but dont know much about them. Besides length, how do I pick the right kind out? Thanks!

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                    #10
                    Terry Cables Hesperia, California. Ray.

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                      #12
                      Yes, you can use that type. You have to purchase the hose ends separately.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #13
                        Those are the type I have used on all my machines, over the years I have collected a few bits and pieces. Banjos and banjo bolts add up.

                        I usually buy the Russell lines from Summit Racing, better price if you go this route.

                        Free Shipping - Russell Universal Brake Line Assemblies with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Brake Hoses, Individual at Summit Racing.


                        At one time MAW was decent in their pricing, but last time they wanted friggin $12 each on shipping tacked on.

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                          #14
                          Here's your solution:



                          Its a replacement cable end. I made it out of a 6 mm socket head cap screw (the unthreaded portion) or you could use a plain piece of bar stock of the appropriate diameter. This particular piece measures .234" diameter. Drill the hole lengthwise first, then tap. I tapped #6-32 because that's what I had. Then drill the cross hole. This is the hole the cable goes into, then tighten down the set screw. I used a button head cap screw, again, because it's what I had in my box o screws.

                          This will allow you to shorten your cables to whatever you want them to be, install the cable end, and off you go. This will also allow you to use a common bicycle brake cable should your throttle (or choke, for that matter) cable ever break somewhere less than convenient.

                          Good luck!

                          Comment


                            #15
                            I needed that part up at Moosehead lake a few years back... why didnt the hardware store have that in stock.. lol

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