1100E rebuild valves

[srsupertrap]

Would you guys mind posting a picture of your DIY valve lapping tool?

[Nessism]

Got the valves out and checked the stem guide clearances.

here are the numbers I got.
the intakes are all between .004" and .007" so no worries there
2 & 3 exhaust are all .007 to .008" so that's still well with in service limits.
1,4 exhaust are .011, .011,.009, .010 that's getting up there service limit is .015"
So those are the ones I am on the bubble over, the stems all measured and appear fine. The wobble is noticeably perpendicular to the cam as one might expect. I did not do any inside checks on the guides but will probably do that too. So the $64,000 question is do I replace the exhaust guides on 1 & 4? If so Suzuki or APE guides and is this a DIY project? Thanks for the lapping ideas, by hand with a rubber tube and dowel for 15 to 30 seconds seems to be about the idea. The valves and guides cleaned up pretty good and should lap in, might be close getting the rough spots out on a couple of the exhaust valves.

It seems amazing that the "standard" clearance is .001" - .0026", but the service limit is .014"??? What's up with that? I'd be nervous running much over .005" or so. The 2V engine valve clearance service limit is .005 and those valves are way larger and heavier. At any rate, changing guides requires a real valve job, not a lapping job. It can be done at home with the proper tools, but the tools are quite expensive. I looked into buying the tools a while back but chickened out because of the cost. Even buying used cutters on ebay is expensive. It would be easier and cheaper sending your head to a pro. Less chance of messing something up too.

[gggGary]

It seems amazing that the "standard" clearance is .001" - .0026", but the service limit is .014"??? What's up with that? I'd be nervous running much over .005" or so. The 2V engine valve clearance service limit is .005 and those valves are way larger and heavier. At any rate, changing guides requires a real valve job, not a lapping job. It can be done at home with the proper tools, but the tools are quite expensive. I looked into buying the tools a while back but chickened out because of the cost. Even buying used cutters on ebay is expensive. It would be easier and cheaper sending your head to a pro. Less chance of messing something up too.

Yeah I am kinda confused here, that's why I am throwing this out to see what some O yous guys think or (gasp) know.

[gggGary]

Also would like to comment that I did some adjusting to the gauge clamping set up and I am fairly confident in repeatability but not so confident in whether this is a proper measuring technique. The valve is rather tall of the seat to get the gauge on it.

[chef1366]

As long as the valve stem is all the way through the guide I see no problem with your measuring method. Actually I like it!
If your in spec lap the valves and assemble.

[rapidray]

Also, if you are going to change ANY guides, you change them ALL! You would also be REQUIRED to do a valve job if you replace the guides. Just so you know. I say wire wheel all the valves, clean the head, lap the valves, replace the valve seals, reassemble the head, hone the cylinders, install new rings, & put them motor back together with new SUZUKI gaskets. I think you will be happy with the results. Let me know if I can be of help, Ray.

[Nessism]

The valve stems wears more near the head than the butt, so I think it would be appropriate to open the valve near it's normal max lift point and then perform the wobble check there. On 2V engines the exhausts are allowed about .005" but intakes are .0035". I'm not sure about 16V engines, but again, I think that service limit is too sloppy.

[cyclefvr2]

yea i would definately lapp them, or have a real valve job done, and theres no way i would put it together with 35k on the rings your defeting the purpose of a rebuild
check the timing chain while your at it, its pennies compaired to another total rebuild

[gggGary]

Yes the distance the valve sticks out for this check seems like an issue. One thing is the height will magnify the "wiggle amount" Just guessing here but the guides should wear worse at the cam end since that is where the side loads come from? I have the heads, valves, and seats cleaned up, amazing how much better it looks "clean". I used a small wire wheel in a dremel tool. One thing I did take away from the tests so far is fairly uniform wear, no one valve looks "bad" compared to others in similar locations greater wear on the outside cylinder exhaust valves was interesting to note. No answer as to the huge differences on valve wear limits between the 8 and 16 valve engine. The 16 valve manual does not describe or show the measurement method so that is a crap shoot all around. Hope y'all don't mind my "as I go" rambling here.

[gggGary]

Bn awhile so a bit of an update on the top end "freshen" I had posted that my 82 crank is straight. During my exploration i could tell the top had been off before, well I saw these today.





This made me pretty happy!

So the bores honed up well. heads, pistons gasket surfaces are clean, now waiting for the gasket set to show.







Will probably start on the carbs next.

[rapidray]

Looks good man!!! Time to start re-assembling! Ray.