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**Anonymous** · 08-03-2003, 05:48 PM

Oh yeah one other thing. I can't ever get any reading whatsoever on the r/r diode test. Troubleshooting chart says OL is okay when connecting multimeter red to r/r red and multimeter black to stator output. But apparently I'm supposed to get around 0.5V when I do it vice versa (multimeter black to r/r red, multimeter red to stator). I still get 0L. The troubleshooting chart doesn't say anything about 0L?

Thanks
Carl

**Don Lobacz** · 08-03-2003, 06:22 PM

The diode test needs to be done with the tester set to ohms, not volts.

**Anonymous** · 08-03-2003, 06:40 PM

That's not what the chart says:

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http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm

In "test phase C" all the possible readings are given in volts.

Carl

**focus frenzy** · 08-03-2003, 08:26 PM

well, it apears there is a problem with the stator pages!! in the three years I have had my bike, I have never needed them so I have never looked at them.
I found a couple errors, first is, you should have more than 75 volts at each of the stator wires at 5K RPM, 60 volts is to low at that RPM.
and the readings stated for the diod test are incorrect.
with the red, positive lead conected to the red output wire, conect the black ground wire to three stator input wires one at a time, you should read OL or I, or what ever your meter shows for no conductivity. If you get any other reading, you have a bad rectifier/regulator.

**Anonymous** · 08-04-2003, 01:27 AM

Yeah, that makes sense. I am not getting any conductivity between my r/r battery output and the three input wires. I guess that means the r/r is okay?

My stator is putting out approximately 60V at 5000 RPM. Keep in mind this is a GS450. Maybe the bigger bikes pump out a little more? Is 60V okay for mine?

My battery is not charging... just stays around 12.2 - 12.4V even when I rev it. My only idea now is that it might be a bad connection from the r/r output to the battery.

Carl

**Anonymous** · 08-04-2003, 03:35 AM

Originally posted by Don Lobacz

The diode test needs to be done with the tester set to ohms, not volts.

It's actually set to the diode test position, which on on my Sun Pro, is next to the ohms scale. And it does measure in voltage. The meter is actually outputting. On mine, in the diode test position, I can use another meter and measure 2.63 volts on the leads. I just went and checked the stator papers, the test sounds correct to me. It also worked for me when I had to use it a couple years ago, and the R/R passed.
The same test is at http://www.electrexusa.com/electrex_fault_finding.html . This is the text from that section: "Switch the multimeter to the DIODE-TEST function. (The reading on the display will be in VOLTS now, not in Ohms!)"

Sounds like Carlivar's R/R's diodes are toast. It also sounds like the stator isn't very far behind.

**Anonymous** · 08-04-2003, 03:49 AM

I fitted a regulator/rectifier from a Honda CX500, apparently these are known to be quite long lasting compared to the Suzuki ones. To fit them on you will need to file one of the mounting holes slightly, also they have an extra voltage sensor wire which will need connecting to a switched live, all the connections will need flat spade terminals fitted to the ends, to connect into the Suzuki connector. In the UK you can pick these up from breakers for about ?20-?30.

**Anonymous** · 08-04-2003, 05:59 AM

I've got a gs450 and I get ~90 volts for all three leasds in the stator testing. 60 sounds like a bare minimum. It sounds like your r/r is ruined. Here's the catch, if your replace the r/r and the stator dies, when it goes, it can take the new r/r with it.

hope this helps....Sam

Originally posted by carlivar

Yeah, that makes sense. I am not getting any conductivity between my r/r battery output and the three input wires. I guess that means the r/r is okay?

My stator is putting out approximately 60V at 5000 RPM. Keep in mind this is a GS450. Maybe the bigger bikes pump out a little more? Is 60V okay for mine?

My battery is not charging... just stays around 12.2 - 12.4V even when I rev it. My only idea now is that it might be a bad connection from the r/r output to the battery.

Carl

**Billy Ricks** · 08-04-2003, 08:34 AM

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

**argonsagas** · 08-04-2003, 08:42 AM

Having heard about the Honda R/r's, and a recommendation for the 400/450 models from early 80's I took the liberty of attaching one to someone else's bike. 8O 8O

The advantage of this model is it exactly fits the bolt holes on the Suzuki 1100.
I don't know its abilities, except by reputation, but it it is larger than the Suzi unit, with more cooling area in its fins, which surely must help.

Run the green wire directly to the battery negative post.

**Anonymous** · 08-04-2003, 11:24 AM

I will try that Suzuki test tonight.

As for the diode test, my r/r actually passed. Turns out I misunderstood the test originally, but once I did it properly I got no connectivity in one way and around 0.5V in the other direction like I'm supposed to.

60V out of the stator worries me. I am going to double-check that.

I think I need to re-do all the wiring connectors. My stator to r/r connections get hot which I understand means the connectors aren't conducting well. I also plan to run a wire from r/r ground to battery ground.

One other thing, when I do the first two steps in the troubleshooting where I connect multimeter up to the battery and the r/r output (to test connections between r/r and battery) I get small negative voltage readings (like -200 mv I think). That is technically less than 0.2V, but am I supposed to get a negative reading? What does that mean?

Thanks very much everyone!

Carl

**Anonymous** · 08-04-2003, 12:05 PM

Sounds like you had the leads reversed.
Do you have the negative lead of the multimeter connected to the positive terminal of the battery like it says in the first part of the test?
Do you have the positive lead of the multimeter connected to the negative terminal of the battery like it says in the second part of the test?

Basically, you're looking for losses. If you find more than 0.2v in the first part, check the wiring from the red wire of the R/R to the gang connector.
If you get more than 0.2v on the second part, run a ground from the R/R mounting bracket directly to battery (-) and make sure the ground to the engine is in good shape.

**Anonymous** · 08-05-2003, 12:45 AM

Okay found out a bunch tonight.

First, I ran a wire from the r/r ground to the battery ground. My battery hardly even charged before that, about 12.4V. Now I get 13.3V at idle!

The bad news though is the voltage at the battery actually DECREASES as the engine speed increases! I suppose that again means possibly a bad r/r? Could it also still mean bad connections?

I don't think the stator is bad. It passes all the resistance tests and I checked again and I get 70+ volts at 5000 rpm. Can't measure too accurately since it's hard to hold the multimeter just right while I rev the engine. (I really need some alligator clip jumper wires)

As for bad connections, that's still very possible. Get this: I counted FIVE connections between the battery positive and the r/r output. Six if you include the battery post connection. One point there are two wires soldered together with electrical tape around it, another connection is the inline fuse, and the other three are bullet connectors. I did my "r/r to battery positive voltage loss test" again and got between 0.3 and 0.4 volts. That's above 0.2 so there's definitely a problem there. My next task will be to completely re-do that wire. Would like to replace the whole thing, but I think it will be hard to re-route a new wire so I will probably just put in new wire where I can, with butt-end connectors.

The voltage loss when revving still worries me, so even after re-cabling the r/r might still be bad. Could it be caused purely by bad wiring though?

Thanks
Carl

**Anonymous** · 08-08-2003, 02:14 PM

Originally posted by argonsagas

Having heard about the Honda R/r's, and a recommendation for the 400/450 models from early 80's I took the liberty of attaching one to someone else's bike. 8O 8O

The advantage of this model is it exactly fits the bolt holes on the Suzuki 1100.
I don't know its abilities, except by reputation, but it it is larger than the Suzi unit, with more cooling area in its fins, which surely must help.

Run the green wire directly to the battery negative post.

Will this unit work on the GS 1150's?

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