Who's using Bandit Gauges?

[posplayr]

Thing is the gs plugs have been cut off by the PO so we have to match up by colours.

how many bandit light do you have and what do you want them hooked to?

[nastyjones]

Is this what you mean? I only need neutral, hi beam, oil, turn signals & back lights.

Paul

[robertbarr]

You don't mention what year of Bandit your cluster came from, but I know that the later Bandits (and possibly the earlier ones) are digital. In fact, there are electronic boxes that 'fix' the speedometer error by substituting one signal pulse rate for another.

I doubt the input sources for the later clusters even exist on your bike.

Electronic tachs have been around for ages, but a digital speedo could be quite a challenge. Perhaps some chip-head geeks here can come up with some A/D solution, but it won't be simple.

[posplayr]

Is this what you mean? I only need neutral, hi beam, oil, turn signals & back lights.

Paul

do you have 5 idiot lights?

They are the ones in that little pod, the back lights are in the gauges

can you take a picture (in Macro mode) of the bakc of the gauges

(this is like playing 29 questions)

[robertbarr]

Is this what you mean? I only need neutral, hi beam, oil, turn signals & back lights.

Paul

Oops, must have missed this...

[nastyjones]

this?

[nastyjones]

Anyone have any ideas yet?

[posplayr]

Anyone have any ideas yet?

Looks like you are

L blinker - find the left blinker circuit and wire in parallel
Neutral - find the Neutral should be easy from the GS1100E schematic
Oil - same as Neutral
Brights - Same as Neutral
R Blinker - find the right blinker circuit and wire in parallel

The back lighting appears to be Grey and Black/White same as the GS. That should be straightforward Black/White is ground the Grey is keyed +12V.

Get a piece of paper and pencil and match the color coding on the gauges to the GS harness . This is why I originally suggested PC paint but paper and pencil with work use the Suzuki wire color coding at the bottom of the GS schematic.

[Billy Ricks]

I can't seem to get the thumbnail to blow up big enough to do me any good. If you have a link to the full size image we can figure this out. I could check my wiring diagram and see if it's close. IIRC for the oil pressure switch you need a constant hot wire for the idiot light then the wire from the switch completes the ground. For the turn signal indicators you can just run wires to each of the front signals to make the idiot lights work for them. Same with your high beam. If you only have one shared lamp for both turn signals then use a diode on before each wire hits the bulb to keep current from working it's way back through all the signals.

[nastyjones]

This should be better.



So one wire will be hot & the other will be a ground?

[Billy Ricks]

Each of the idiot lights will have a hot and ground going to them. In some cases the ground is signal and others the hot wire is signal.

Let's start with the oil pressure light. You want the positive wire to always be hot to it. That's the orange wire with the green tracer on your schematic. You can hook that hot wire up to any switched source on your bike. If you have existing running lights that would be a good circuit for this and the gauge lighting. That would be all the light grey wires on your new gauges. The green wire with the yellow tracer on the oil pressure light gets hooked up to the wire from the oil pressure switch on your bike. On my bike the oil pressure wire is green with yellow tracer as well. Not sure about yours.

Neutral light. Again a constant supply from the positive side. You can pull this power from the same hot wire you're using for the oil pressure light. The blue wire with the black tracer will go to the wire in your harness coming from the neutral position wire in your harness. Mine appears to be blue.

Turn signal lights, look like you have two. Common ground to both then you'll have light green in the harness for right side, solid black for left.

High beam. Common ground, you can use the one from the turn signals. Then the yellow wire on the indicator bulb connects to yellow in your harness.

I'll have to look at some notes on hooking up the tach. You do want a dedicated ground wire for it, mine didn't like sharing a ground with other stuff.

[Billy Ricks]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=214886&postcount=7

[nastyjones]

Great thanks Billy,

I think I finally understand. Your instructions sound easy to follow. I'll see if I can get things going tomorrow & report back.

Thanks again,

Paul

[Billy Ricks]

Forgot to mention the black wires with white tracers are grounds on both your new gauges and your stock wiring. On your tach it looks like the solid orange is constant power from a switched source and the red wire with the black tracer gets signal from one of the coils. Black with a yellow tracer is most likely your best choice. Black with the white tracer on the new tach is ground.

[salty_monk]

Do those gauges use the stock GS cable for the speedo?

Dan