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    #16
    okay, it sounds easy enough, I sjut seem to have a tendency of messing electrical things up, that's why i'm asking more questions

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      #17
      The clutch switch is bypassed on my bike. Remove the wires from the switch at the clutch perch, twist them together, tape or solder them and stick them back into the switch housing. Just remember to have the bike in neutral when you try and start it.

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        #18
        oh, so, right at the clutch lever there's two wires, just connect them to complete the circuit and that's it?

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          #19
          wait, I think I just got it and I feel retarded.... pulling the clutch lever would complete said circuit, so, if the wires are connected, the circuit is always complete >_<.... or I still don't and you guys are face-palming yourselves right now
          Last edited by Guest; 02-28-2010, 02:50 AM.

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            #20
            You got it now

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              #21
              thank god, I feel like a dumbass for not getting it sooner.... *facepalm*
              thank you for you assistance... I will be trying this next time I get around the bike and give you guys the verdict

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                #22
                If that's not it check the kill switch and spin the fuses (glass).
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  I swapped out the fuses for good measure at first..... is there any particular procedure to testing the kill-switch?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by apcsox View Post
                    I swapped out the fuses for good measure at first..... is there any particular procedure to testing the kill-switch?
                    All the power goes to your ignition from the Kill switch. If the contacts are dirty you won't get a good voltage there.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #25
                      [QUOTE=apcsox;1164532] I pulled the clutch lever and pressed the starter button.... nothing... QUOTE]

                      If ''nothing...'' = starter do not engaged and motor did not even turn, and batery is good, it's the clutch switch who's faulty.Jumping it should do the trick. If killing switch is down the starter will launch the engine but it will not fired up. Killing switch just cut power to ignition coil.

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                        #26
                        [QUOTE=André;1165150]
                        Originally posted by apcsox View Post
                        I pulled the clutch lever and pressed the starter button.... nothing... QUOTE]

                        If ''nothing...'' = starter do not engaged and motor did not even turn, and batery is good, it's the clutch switch who's faulty.Jumping it should do the trick. If killing switch is down the starter will launch the engine but it will not fired up. Killing switch just cut power to ignition coil.
                        Not true junior. If the kill switch is open, the bike will not even crank. At least on my bike anyway.

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                          #27
                          [QUOTE=Tom MLC;1166115]
                          Originally posted by André View Post

                          Not true junior. If the kill switch is open, the bike will not even crank. At least on my bike anyway.
                          you are correct... at least for the GS bikes in the states.
                          now Honda's....
                          they will crank with the switch off but no sparkles...

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                            #28
                            Could also be dirty contacts on the starter switch itself. You can spray the right hand switchgear with some electrical contact cleaner. On the clutch switch I would get into the headlight bucket and connect the male and female ends from the main harness rather than cutting the wires at the perch. This way it will be easily reversible.

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                              #29
                              My 450 was doing the same thing and it turned out to be a dirty, corrodded stater button. Take your switch apart and cleaned the inside of the button, spring and contacts. Be careful though small parts! And lots of fun putting back together. But made mine work. terrylee.

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                                #30
                                yeah, problem with the clutch switch... when I went to troubleshoot it the other day, it started like nothing was ever wrong.... my clutch handle is loose, so apparently at certain angles it didn't make the proper connection.... jsut need to tighten it up now

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