how to crimp properly?

[Anonymous]

This is probably a very basic question to most of you guys, but I was wondering how to crimp a wire to a connector properly.

I know to use a crimping tool (not pliers) and to strip the wire the correct length for the connector. Oh and to use the correct gauge wire that the connector is intended for.

I guess my question is, do I crimp the wire to the connector on the wire's insulation, or on the wire's copper strands? I figure crimping to the insulation gives a firm crimp that won't come off easily. Crimping to the copper strands though makes a better electrical connection. I thought that it was bad though just to crimp to the copper, because the physical connection won't be nearly as strong as crimping to insulation. Or do you crimp twice, once at the base of the connector for physical sturdiness and once at the copper strands for electrical connectivity?

Thanks for any tips!

Carl

[Anonymous]

You crimp on the conductor, not the insulation.

[Hap Call]

If you want a good connection, you then solder the crimp.

Hap

[Anonymous]

If you want a good connection, you then solder the crimp.

Hap

I'll second that! Much less resistance this way. The higher the resistance, the higher the heat. The higher the heat, the less efficient.

Cragar 8)

[gremlin]

crimping tools

Mfr.'s Part #: 1005
Allied Stock #: 726-1250
Manufacturer: KLEIN TOOLS
Description: Crimping Tools
Current Page #: 1021*
Previous Page #: 918*

http://www.alliedelec.com/cart/partlookup.asp?ST=AS&PartNumber=7261250

use this tool, not the cheep mutli ones you can get at wal-mart. you get a better stronger crimp. you can get them at your local industral supply store.

crimp only to the wire, if you crimp the insulator it will streach and fall off. do as Hap Call said "solder the crimp" ask for high temp solder too this will save you a lot of problems in the long run.

[Anonymous]

Ah okay thanks guys. I do crimp RJ45 plugs to ethernet cables for computer networking all the time, and for those you have to have a special crimping tool that crimps both the connections and the insulation, so I guess that's what I was comparing it to.

Carl

[Anonymous]

The best connection is made by soldering, but if you are going to crimp, try to find a crimp tool and a lug that allows you to crimp the connector and the insulation. This will give you the support needed to maintain a strong connection.
When small wires are crimped only to the exposed portion and not the insulation, the wire is weakened every time it is moved in any way. and sooner or later it will break. When a small portion of the insulation is crimped as well, it removes some, if not all, of the stress on the conductor itself, and ensures that your crimp will hold securely.
Tom

[Hap Call]

Ah okay thanks guys. I do crimp RJ45 plugs to ethernet cables for computer networking all the time, and for those you have to have a special crimping tool that crimps both the connections and the insulation, so I guess that's what I was comparing it to.

Carl

Some systems use the insulation as part of the "structure" of the fitting. Cables such as co-axial cables also use the insulation/armor for EMF suppression, strength, grounding, eating pretzels, etc.

Hap

[Anonymous]

Some systems use the insulation as part of the "structure" of the fitting. Cables such as co-axial cables also use the insulation/armor for EMF suppression, strength, grounding, eating pretzels, etc.

Hap

I hate it when I get salt in my jacket....

[mdole]

Re: crimping tools

Mfr.'s Part #: 1005
Allied Stock #: 726-1250
Manufacturer: KLEIN TOOLS
Description: Crimping Tools
Current Page #: 1021*
Previous Page #: 918*

http://www.alliedelec.com/cart/partlookup.asp?ST=AS&PartNumber=7261250

use this tool, not the cheep mutli ones you can get at wal-mart. you get a better stronger crimp. you can get them at your local industral supply store.

crimp only to the wire, if you crimp the insulator it will streach and fall off. do as Hap Call said "solder the crimp" ask for high temp solder too this will save you a lot of problems in the long run.

I use an ideal crimping tool that has worked very well for quite a few years. http://www.goodmart.com/products/85390.htm it is simular to the one shown above.

[gremlin]

mdole, that one looks like it will get the job done. them cheep stamped crimpers just dont cut it.
I have a guy i worked with that used the cheep crimpers, I spent mot of the time after he got done working on wireing truble shooting the system. normly the day after he got done with it.

oen thing that did cross my mind, go to a good eletronics supply shop or industral suppler. thay have the good connectors the ones that you crimp to the wire then thay have a second crimp to the insulation. like the ones that are oem on the bike. thay cost a bit more but worth every cent when your not on the side of the road.
take a sample connector in with you thay will know the type you need.

[focus frenzy]

the problem with those pinch type crimpers is they tend to squeeze a hole in shrink tubing used on connectors with heat shrink tubing.
I have a very speacialized crimper that I use that has a ratchet mechanism to allow it to hold the terminal and it uses [ [ shaped jaws that close square down to squeeze the terminal from all four corners and makes a very tight connection with out cutting into the connector insulation.
I will try to find a link or picture of them.

[granny_rocket]

don't skimp on a good crimp tool.

I work for a theatrical lighting rental/sale shop and I crimp high current connections ALL THE TIME! A good crimp tool is worth the investment!

Secondly, soldring may be better, but a crimp made correctly is just as good if not better....(efficiency)

When you look at the crimp terminal, you will see a line...this is the butt seam. (unless you bought expensive crimp terminals that are brazed together) When you crimp, you want the dimple of the crimper to crimp 180? from the butt seam....if you crimp with the dimple on the butt seam, your crimp may not last too long under strain....and yes, you want to crimp ON THE WIRE, not the insulation

I know this is kinda an old post, but I thought it was worth my $.02