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Degreeing Camshafts -- Information Required
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Never mind, I just looked to see where you are. You need to put a dial indicator on top of the #1 intake bucket & then, with the piston at TDC, pry down on the bucket slowly till the valve touches the piston. Read the dial indicator & it will tell you the clearance on the piston to valve. Repeat on exhaust side. Ray.
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by rapidray View PostNever mind, I just looked to see where you are. You need to put a dial indicator on top of the #1 intake bucket & then, with the piston at TDC, pry down on the bucket slowly till the valve touches the piston. Read the dial indicator & it will tell you the clearance on the piston to valve. Repeat on exhaust side. Ray.
Any suggestions on how to hold the cam sprocket while torquing the sprocket bolts to the correct torque.
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostWell if this helps. I installed my cams by mistake 1 tooth out and didnt notice until i rotated the engine a couple times to check the exhaust center, which was less than 90 deg. There was no interference rotating by hand so no valves were hitting pistons. I cant say that if I ran it like that there wouldnt have been bent valves. So, you can be quite far out and not get interference. I just installed my new cams and set them at 105/107 just like I had set the old cams. no problems what soever.
Suzuki maybe set the cams on those centers for emmisions reasons or gas mileage or whatever, not so much maybe for best performance.
I have now slotted my sprockets and set the timing to 104° and 106° for the intake and exhaust respectively as suggested by Ray. Made one mistake though, I forgot to torque the camshaft cap bolts. I nipped them down when I installed the cams and in my eagerness to degree the cams forgot to torque them down. So I will have to do that tonight and recheck the timing. Don't think it will change much if any.
Then I will see how it operates when I eventually get it all back together and start the motor.
Last edited by Guest; 04-08-2010, 08:19 PM.
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Rapidray,
Great tip to measure the clearance between the piston and valve. BTW what's the minimum clearance for street engines based on your experience?
Suzuki_Don,
What was the clearance you measured? I wouldn't think (assumption) 650 stock cams could not kiss the pistons no matter how they were timed. But that's why I didn't comment.Last edited by srsupertrap; 04-09-2010, 09:27 PM.Steve
1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by srsupertrap View PostRapidray,
Great tip to measure the clearance between the piston and valve. BTW what's the minimum clearance for street engines based on your experience?
Suzuki_Don,
What was the clearance you measured? I wouldn't think (assumption) 650 stock cams could not kiss the pistons no matter how they were timed. But that's why I didn't comment.
How do I hold the sprockets while I tighten the bolts to 12 lb ft.
BTW I torqued the cam cap bolts down to 1.2 ?? (whatever in metric). I then rechecked the timing and the results were Intake 104.5 and Exhaust 105.75 degrees. Not sure at this stage whether to leave it at that or try and get the 2 degrees separation that Ray advised at 104 & 106.
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Button it up and ride it. That's closer than Mr. Suzuki himself cared to be. You should of seen my numbers with the stock sprockets. Not even close to the specs.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostButton it up and ride it. That's closer than Mr. Suzuki himself cared to be. You should of seen my numbers with the stock sprockets. Not even close to the specs.
I went to a Ford swap meet today (Sunday) and came across a dial gauge. It was just what I was after to do a final check on my cams. It even came with a pointer bent to a similar shape that I will need to place it on my buckets. It's good because it is just a piece of wire with a thread on it to go onto the dial gauge and if I bend it about a bit I won't feel so bad if I bugger it up. Best thing is it came with a magnetic stand with all the attachments and the dial gauge for $25. A BARGAIN.
DIAL GAUGE AS DESCRIBED
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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- Torrance, CA
Hey Don,
Did you do any port clean up work on that head? The short side radius on these GS heads typically has a very sharp edge on the exhaust side which you can easily dress smooth with a few strokes of a rat tail file. Definetly worth doing if you haven't already done so.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by Nessism View PostHey Don,
Did you do any port clean up work on that head? The short side radius on these GS heads typically has a very sharp edge on the exhaust side which you can easily dress smooth with a few strokes of a rat tail file. Definetly worth doing if you haven't already done so.
I had the head chemically cleaned so there is not a sign of any carbon whatsoever on the head. I will have to have a look in the exhaust port and check. Is it something that can be done with the head installed?
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Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostThat's rich from someone who is a pedestrian just like me. Ha ha.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35700
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostNo Ed I didn't touch the head as far as any porting is concerned.
I had the head chemically cleaned so there is not a sign of any carbon whatsoever on the head. I will have to have a look in the exhaust port and check. Is it something that can be done with the head installed?
The valves need to be out of the head to do the clean up work. Like I said, a rat tail file works great. I'm not a mod-it sort of guy but that edge was so sharp on the GS1000 heads I've had that even I couldn't resist.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by Nessism View PostDon,
The valves need to be out of the head to do the clean up work. Like I said, a rat tail file works great. I'm not a mod-it sort of guy but that edge was so sharp on the GS1000 heads I've had that even I couldn't resist.
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostThanks Ed, I forgot to have a look last night. Hopefully the 650 head does not have that issue. Too late now anyway the head is on, cams degreeing has been done. Thanks.
Thanks
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