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    Rebuild done, how to handle oiling the engine

    I'm not really done, but I was thinking about when I am done, how do I deal with lubricating the engine for the first time? The upper part of the engine has been cleaned and degreased, the pan has been off so most all of the oil is gone. Only a thin coat exists in the case. Will cranking the engine with a new batch of oil adequately circulate throughout the upper right away or should I make some rotations by hand? Maybe a few small bursts of the starter button?

    #2
    Before starting the rebuilt engine on my 1000S I filled the valve pockets and the oil distribution cavity on the back of the engine with oil before cranking it over. After that, just start the engine as normal.

    BTW, you lubed the crank bearings with oil when you installed them didn't you?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Before starting the rebuilt engine on my 1000S I filled the valve pockets and the oil distribution cavity on the back of the engine with oil before cranking it over. After that, just start the engine as normal.

      BTW, you lubed the crank bearings with oil when you installed them didn't you?
      I'm only doing the top end.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by apogeecustom View Post
        I'm only doing the top end.
        Fill the valve pockets with oil and start it.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          I get happy with a little oil can with 10W40.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            putting wite lithiam grease all over the cam lobes and bearing surfacees(or someother asembly lube) ...... then just befor starting i would take off the valve cover and pour some breakin oil (remember you need to breakin all new or refurbished parts togeather) then replace valve cover and disable ign and crank for a few secs ..... reenable ign and start.....


            that is what i would do ....
            and its what we did at the university of northwestern ohio when we built the engines for our race engines ......

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              Fill the valve pockets with oil and start it.
              Sounds good to me!

              Comment


                #8
                Usually

                Any engine I am not sure of I spin with the plugs out until I gain oil pressure..Then install plugs and fire..

                Comment


                  #9
                  asembly lube, you can get it at auto part stores. coat every part as you install them, then add oil to the bike. start bike run it for brake in, change oil. run a few hundred miles change oil agen. check for metal in the oil each time. I check for metal parts in the oil on any motor at every oil change.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gremlin View Post
                    asembly lube, you can get it at auto part stores. coat every part as you install them, then add oil to the bike. start bike run it for brake in, change oil. run a few hundred miles change oil agen. check for metal in the oil each time. I check for metal parts in the oil on any motor at every oil change.
                    Note
                    Do no use assembly lube on rings or cylinder walls.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by sk843143 View Post
                      putting wite lithiam grease all over the cam lobes and bearing surfacees(or someother asembly lube) ...... then just befor starting i would take off the valve cover and pour some breakin oil (remember you need to breakin all new or refurbished parts togeather) then replace valve cover and disable ign and crank for a few secs ..... reenable ign and start.....


                      that is what i would do ....
                      and its what we did at the university of northwestern ohio when we built the engines for our race engines ......
                      Did your race engines have wet clutches?

                      I would not suggest using white lithium in a bike engine.

                      .
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                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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                        #12
                        +1 on the Assembly Lube... I tied putting just oil on and cracking with mixed results... there is a reason for such lubes; save yourself some money and do what the book says... lube it or lose it

                        Also assembly lube on rings and pistons? ... now that tis cookin
                        Last edited by Guest; 03-08-2010, 04:05 AM.

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                          #13
                          The factory service manual states which parts should get assembly lube, and pistons rings and cylinder walls are not mentioned.

                          Getting back to the original question here, some assembly lube on the cam journals would have been a good idea, as well as a smig on the valve buckets. On a previously used 8V engine though where the parts are already run in together the main thing is to have a good puddle of oil in the cam pockets so the cams don't run dry. Spinning the engine over and what have you is not necessary.
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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