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Whats the trick?
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drmaxdc
Whats the trick?
I rebuilt the carbs on my 81 GS1100 E for the first time. Whats the trick to putting the air box on? It won't fit with the carbs on the bike, I guess I'll try taking the carbs back off and put the air box on while they are off. Where is the best place to find new boots the the carb and air box? ThanksTags: None
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If the boots on the airbox are very hard you will have a heck of a time.
Try mrcycles.com for some new boots.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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On most bikes, the airbox goes in, then the carbs.
There might be one or two that can be removed with the carbs in place, but I have not heard.
Consider yourself fortunate, though, there are a couple of models that require removing the engine to remove the airbox from the frame.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Put the air box in the frame, but don't bolt it to anything. Leave the rear part of the airbox where the filter goes off for now. Push the airbox as far back in the frame as it can go. The carbs can slide in from the right, tilted at about thirty degree angle. You probably want to stop about half way in to attach the throttle and choke cables, have the fuel line attached to the carb T before you start, you can't reach these when it's all together.
A shot of silicone spray lube inside the rubber boots helps get the carbs in without damaging the boots. A ratcheting tie down around the engine can be used to pull the carbs forward and pop them into the boots if needed. Be careful not to break anything if you do this.
It is a LOT easier with new rubber front and rear.
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostA ratcheting tie down around the engine can be used to pull the carbs forward and pop them into the boots if needed.
Can I go home now?
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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DanTheMan
Hi, Mr. drmaxdc, if you'll follow this link, http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...30#post1168630
you'll get a real nice picture tutorial on how to solve the problem.
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koolaid_kid
The boots are available at http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/.../1/Suzuki.aspx
You'll want parts 2 and 16 on the AIR CLEANER fiche. I suggest also replacing parts 3, 8 & 17, but that's your call.Last edited by Guest; 03-08-2010, 04:40 PM.
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BassCliff
Originally posted by DanTheMan View PostHi, Mr. drmaxdc, if you'll follow this link, http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...30#post1168630
you'll get a real nice picture tutorial on how to solve the problem.
Thanks for the vote of confidence Dan! But on my 850 there is a lot more room behind the engine. I can put the carbs on first and then slide the airbox in behind them.
I was surprised at how easy the operation was. I'm starting to think that there is not another bike that is easier to work on than mine.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Kaiser Sosei
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostPut the air box in the frame, but don't bolt it to anything. Leave the rear part of the airbox where the filter goes off for now. Push the airbox as far back in the frame as it can go. The carbs can slide in from the right, tilted at about thirty degree angle. You probably want to stop about half way in to attach the throttle and choke cables, have the fuel line attached to the carb T before you start, you can't reach these when it's all together.
A shot of silicone spray lube inside the rubber boots helps get the carbs in without damaging the boots. A ratcheting tie down around the engine can be used to pull the carbs forward and pop them into the boots if needed. Be careful not to break anything if you do this.
It is a LOT easier with new rubber front and rear.
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drmaxdc
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Originally posted by BassCliff View PostHi,
Thanks for the vote of confidence Dan! But on my 850 there is a lot more room behind the engine. I can put the carbs on first and then slide the airbox in behind them.
I was surprised at how easy the operation was. I'm starting to think that there is not another bike that is easier to work on than mine.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Yep, yanking the carbs on a shaftie is about as easy as it gets.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
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