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rear caliper removal problem

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    #1

    rear caliper removal problem

    So I apologize in advance for the basic question, but I'm having alot of difficulty removing the rear caliper (in order to remove the wheel to get the tire changed).

    I uploaded a few pictures of where I am, the terrible quality is due to a cell phone camera

    I've removed the caliper torque bolt and the rear caliper mounting bolts. I can jiggle the caliper around side to side but I can't pull it up off the rotor. As far as I can figure, my bike (82 gs650g) doesn't have a brake line support bolt the brake line is just tucked under these support clips, which i've already pulled the brake line out of. I'm at a complete loss here I don't want to force the caliper especially cause the front ones came out so easily is this just how the rear one is?

    Thanks for the help in advance





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    #2
    Have you removed the brake pads fromm the caliper? When I changed my rear tire last summer I changed my brake pads as I figured it was a good time as any to clean everything up. I removed the dust cover and pulled out the 2 pins and was carefull to not loose the tension springs and lifted out the old pads. The caliper came right off with no problems.
    Last edited by Guest; 03-08-2010, 10:38 PM.

    Comment

      #3
      Seems the brake pads may have worn a small groove in the rotor..pull the inspection cover off the top and use a flat tip screwdriver between the pads and rotor and pry the pistons back into the housings a bit and they will most likely slide right off. Be sure to take a small C clamp and compress the pistons back in all the way if your gonna put on new pads. Re install everything and pump the brakes a few times to reseat the new pads against the rotors.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment

        #4
        You don't have to remove the caliper that way. Reinstall it on the hanger. Just slide the axle out and leave the caliper on the hanger. The hanger and caliper will come off when the axle is extracted.

        Comment

          #5
          Oh and once its all apart take a look at the rotor to see if its get ant serious groovage going on . And Billy.. if he cant get the caliper free from the rotor it doesnt matter if he pulls the axle bolt first or not..its still gonna be stuck on the WHEEL because the rotor is ATTATCHED to the WHEEL.. In any scenario the pads have to be let loose of the rotor or the wheel cant be removed...
          Last edited by chuck hahn; 03-08-2010, 10:07 PM.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment

            #6
            ok perfect thanks Chuck, I'll get back in the garage tomorrow afternoon and take check out the pads. I'll let you guys know what the rotor looks like

            Comment

              #7
              Just get a screwdriver or something between the pads and rotor and push the pads back. It ain't rocket science. Loosening the bleeder will help too. It will definitely help in prying the pads back. And again, you can leave the caliper on the hanger.

              Comment

                #8
                I've never had to do anything to the caliper to get the rear wheel off. Just to make sure the rotor goes back in between the pads.
                Is this a shafty?
                You're right about the pics. Pretty much worthless.
                Yup a G
                Take the cap off the top of the caliper and pry the pads apart as Billy suggests.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Pry the pads back a bit like me and Billy suggested and it will all just slide right off.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    Pry the pads back a bit like me and Billy suggested and it will all just slide right off.
                    And Chuck
                    Sorry
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      for what?? Bill check the Bs post again and see if what i wrote makes sense
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                        for what?? Bill check the Bs post again and see if what i wrote makes sense
                        Your post makes perfect sense. The pressure relief hole in the master cylinder might be clogged and keeping the pads pushed against the rotor. If he'll loosen the bleeder or bleeders he can easily push the pads back. I wonder if this bike has sat up and the pistons are frozen in the calipers?

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I basically rewrote your original post that had sound advice and gave Billy credit.
                          My bad
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            I didnt see any details as to if it had been setting for any time. I had to discover the hard way that even though you "rebuild" the calipers and be sure all is so called spotless that there is still old crap up in the lines and splitter valve ( on the front system) . I had to also take off the lines and very meticulously be sure they werent deteriorating on the insides and be sure evry inch was claen on the inside too.. Old stuff worked its way down and got stuck between the seal and the piston and caused them to seize against the rotor.. very good point you brought up!!!
                            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              he says he can jiggle the caliper so I would doubt if the pads are pushing against the rotor. I'd guess the rotor probably has a ridge build up on the outer edge thats catching the brake shoes when he tries to pull the caliper off. I would just remove the pads as its not that big of a deal and once the tire is off then you can do some cleaning behind where the pads sit. I just checked my service manual and the first thing it says to do when removing the caliper is to "remove" the brake pads.
                              Last edited by Guest; 03-08-2010, 11:13 PM.

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