Head removal ??

[Nessism]

No disrespect to Eric but the dingoball type is better for used cylinders since there are invariably going to be low spots and those flat bar hones skip over those areas.

Regarding where to purchase, Goodson is a good source... http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...47bf2a07e7f9bb

Anyone know what grit to use? I'm thinking 180 or 240?

[67fire]

No disrespect to Eric but the dingoball type is better for used cylinders since there are invariably going to be low spots and those flat bar hones skip over those areas.

Regarding where to purchase, Goodson is a good source... http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...47bf2a07e7f9bb

Anyone know what grit to use? I'm thinking 180 or 240?

No disrepect to Ed but, if you are skipping over low spots,
you need a bore job.
Not a freshening up.

Eric

[Rick65Cat]

No disrepect to Ed but, if you are skipping over low spots,
you need a bore job.
Not a freshening up.

Eric

X2
If you got "low spots" wouldn't it be smoking?

[Nessism]

X2
If you got "low spots" wouldn't it be smoking?

The dingoball hone is the proper tool. Yes, there will be low spots but not enough to cause problems assuming the cylinder is still within the service limit. Straight hones are going to skip over spots and are better if the cylinder has been freshly bored, but for a used cylinder you just want to deglaze for installing new rings, use the dingoball.

[blowerbike]

i just wanted to say DINGOBALL

[waterman]

No disrespect to Eric but the dingoball type is better for used cylinders since there are invariably going to be low spots and those flat bar hones skip over those areas.

Regarding where to purchase, Goodson is a good source... http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...47bf2a07e7f9bb

Anyone know what grit to use? I'm thinking 180 or 240?

I used a 180 grit ball hone on my 650, worked great.

I think the ball hones are a little easier to use, a little more forgiving if you don't have the hone centered in cylinder. Irregardless of which you use, make sure to thoroughly and I mean thoroughly clean cylinders with soapy water when finished. The grit from stones will very quickly destroy rings if not removed properly.

[Russ' GS1000E]

Crud gets down into the stud holes and makes removing the cylinder a pain sometimes.

Quote of the weekend for me.
The studs next to the cam chain on the exhaust side are fighting me to the death. Not so much fun.
The threaded portion at the top refuses to pass thru the cylinder.

Visions of Sawzall dance in my head.

[Nessism]

Quote of the weekend for me.
The studs next to the cam chain on the exhaust side are fighting me to the death. Not so much fun.
The threaded portion at the top refuses to pass thru the cylinder.

Visions of Sawzall dance in my head.

You might want to double nut those stuck studs and break them loose from the crankcase. You will have to tighten those nuts really tight but you will get the studs out if you use a long handled box wrench.

[1948man]

What does PETA have to say about the use of Dingo balls?

[Russ' GS1000E]

double nut those stuck studs

Good idea. I was thinking vise grips.
Hopefully new studs are available.




People Eating Tasty Animals might prefer Dingo balls.

[Russ' GS1000E]

You might want to double nut those stuck studs and break them loose from the crankcase. You will have to tighten those nuts really tight but you will get the studs out if you use a long handled box wrench.

Massive thanks Nessism !

Double nutting worked a charm. Doubt it even stressed the studs. They unscrewed nicely, perhaps due to the can of PB Blaster lavished down the stud holes when I was trying to clear the cylinder crud.

I think unscrewing the 4 middle studs from the base, yet leaving them in the cylinder, is the best and cleanest path to cylinder removal.

I ended up with some crud in the bottom end attempting to pull the cylinder off the studs.

Otherwise, I think everything looks good, well except my terrible job of pre-cleaning the motor exterior.

[hampshirehog]

Before you put the top end back on I suggest dropping the sump / screen and flushing through with a good cleaner. Chances are that you'll have dropped crud in to the bottom end when you were struggling to pull the cylinders off.

And once you've flushed it, flush it again

[Russ' GS1000E]

Before you put the top end back on I suggest dropping the sump / screen and flushing through with a good cleaner. Chances are that you'll have dropped crud in to the bottom end when you were struggling to pull the cylinders off.

And once you've flushed it, flush it again

No doubt some crud got in. I can see it.
Ah, yes. Do I reverse flush with the engine upside down?
Using Mineral Spirits, zero weight oil, Killer Whale juice?

[Rick65Cat]

For a complete and total cleaning that will let you get a good sleep at night, I suggest filling your bathtub with piping hot water and copious amounts of lemon juice. (cuts the grease like doing dishes).
First and foremost lay a foam mat down to prevent the wife complaining about the fine scratches in the porcelin that will surely occur.
Once the motor has soaked for an hour or so, grab each end of the mat and set up a gentle "swooshing" by pulling the mat back and forth. All crud inside will flush out with the gental yet effective agitation.
Voila` One cleaner than new engine.

PS. If you have a shower head on the end of a long hose, you can reach those hard to get to areas that the "swooshing" would have a hard time dealing with.