Break-in oil

[Audioslave784]

I am finally putting my engine back together after new rings and a cylinder hone. I was about to put in fresh oil and, and I'm just wondering if there any certain oil or viscosity I should use? Is break-in oil the way to go, or could I stick with the regular 10w40 Castrol?

[67fire]

I usually use 3 quarts of HD W30 and one quart of 10W40.
You DID use assembly lube on the friction parts, right?
(Cam bearings, cam lobes, cam gears, piston skirts and rings.)

Eric

[Steve]

Can't imagine why one would not go with all four quarts of 10w-40, especially for "break-in".

The 10w part says that it flows like a 10w at colder temps (like when you start the bike) and will flow through the small passages in the bearings easier than thicker oil (30w). Personally, I would go with the 10w-40. Castrol is fine.

Also personal preference, but I would run that oil for just a few miles to flush all the crud out of the engine, change the oil and filter, run it for about 100 miles, then change the oil and filter again. After that, you can resume normal intervals.

.

[67fire]

Higher zinc content for cam/bearing break-in.

Eric

[rapidray]

I am with Eric on using a higher zinc content oil for break in. I recommend it for every day use & ESPECIALLY break in! If you can get it, get Penn Grade 30 or 40 wt. It is what used to be the old Kendall "green" oil & that stuff is by FAR the best dino oil you can get! Ray.

[Steve]

Didn't realize that the zinc content would be different.

Is that because of the "HD" or the straight-weight?

.

[Nessism]

Where are you guys getting this stuff that straight weight has higher zinc? Go to Bob is the Oil guy and look up some oil analysis threads, I've never seen higher zinc on straight weight like you guys claim.

Regarding using straight 30W, i wouldn't do it since it's too thin. Use 10W-40 motorcycle oil or 15W-40 diesel oil since that DOES have higher zinc than the common auto oils.

[67fire]

Both, actually. 15W40 Diesel oil is also a good alternative for higher PPM of Zinc.
I prefer a thicker oil film when breaking in. More cushioning between parts.
But, I'll let Ray explain...

Eric

[Guest]

How about saw dust and crisco?

[Steve]

I prefer a thicker oil film when breaking in. More cushioning between parts.

I have been operating on the principle that, although the thicker oil might have better cushioning, it will only have it if it can get into that space in the first place.

I could be wrong, it's happened before.

And it'll probably happen again.

.

[hampshirehog]

If you're in the UK use GTX. If you're not, don't. We've got more zinc in ours.

[rapidray]

Where are you guys getting this stuff that straight weight has higher zinc? Go to Bob is the Oil guy and look up some oil analysis threads, I've never seen higher zinc on straight weight like you guys claim.

Regarding using straight 30W, i wouldn't do it since it's too thin. Use 10W-40 motorcycle oil or 15W-40 diesel oil since that DOES have higher zinc than the common auto oils.

Ed, the PENN GRADE is a racing oil that HAS MORE ZINC! Try some research on what I post BEFORE wanting to argue everything. Ray.

[Calvin Blackmore]

Ed, the PENN GRADE is a racing oil that HAS MORE ZINC! Try some research on what I post BEFORE wanting to argue everything. Ray.

Asking a legitimate question is hardly an arguement.

[Audioslave784]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll try and find a high zinc oil locally for the break-in, and I'll change to the Castrol after a few (maybe 15 or 20?) miles.

I usually use 3 quarts of HD W30 and one quart of 10W40.
You DID use assembly lube on the friction parts, right?
(Cam bearings, cam lobes, cam gears, piston skirts and rings.)

Eric

I put some oil on the piston skirts and sleeves and plan to fill the valve recesses with oil until the cam lobes are covered. Is assembly lube necessary as well? I was under the impression that assembly lube wasn't entirely necessary and might interfere with the wet clutch (although I am a noob with rebuilds and could be completely mistaken here).

I've placed the block and head but haven't torqued anything down yet, so I could do the pistons without too much hassle.

[Guest]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll try and find a high zinc oil locally for the break-in, and I'll change to the Castrol after a few (maybe 15 or 20?) miles.



I put some oil on the piston skirts and sleeves and plan to fill the valve recesses with oil until the cam lobes are covered. Is assembly lube necessary as well? I was under the impression that assembly lube wasn't entirely necessary and might interfere with the wet clutch (although I am a noob with rebuilds and could be completely mistaken here).

I've placed the block and head but haven't torqued anything down yet, so I could do the pistons without too much hassle.

You shouldn't oil the sleeves. It disrupts the breaking in of the rings.