Break-in oil

[Nessism]

Just to clarify, straight weight oil does not have more zinc/phosphorus, but that Brad Penn oil does, regardless of the viscosity.

Regarding using straight 30 weight, it is not thicker than 10W-40, it’s thinner, except when it’s cold.

Regarding using straight 40 weight, I don’t see the point. I’d much rather use a 10W-40 during break in since it’s thinner when cold and will get up the cams easier.

Regarding switching to GTX after 10-20 miles, I don’t see the point of this either, unless you live in England where this oil has more zinc than here in the states. GTX in the US has about 1/3 less zinc and phosphorus than diesel oil, so you are downgrading by using it.

[Audioslave784]

Crap. So I'm pretty much going to have to take everything apart now? Clean the sleeves and lube the pistons?

You shouldn't oil the sleeves. It disrupts the breaking in of the rings.

[paco13]

I wouldn't pull it apart, it'll be fine. If you oil the pistons its gonna transfer to sleeve as well obviously. I always coat the bore with oil when sliding pistons in and haven't had any probs with break in.

[Audioslave784]

Just to clarify, straight weight oil does not have more zinc/phosphorus, but that Brad Penn oil does, regardless of the viscosity.

Regarding using straight 30 weight, it is not thicker than 10W-40, it’s thinner, except when it’s cold.

Regarding using straight 40 weight, I don’t see the point. I’d much rather use a 10W-40 during break in since it’s thinner when cold and will get up the cams easier.

Regarding switching to GTX after 10-20 miles, I don’t see the point of this either, unless you live in England where this oil has more zinc than here in the states. GTX in the US has about 1/3 less zinc and phosphorus than diesel oil, so you are downgrading by using it.

I was thinking of switching to a new oil only to flush out crud from the break-in process. Although after reading some more on this, 100 or so miles is probably more appropriate.

You shouldn't oil the sleeves. It disrupts the breaking in of the rings.

My Haynes manual states to "lubricate thoroughly the cylinder bores" before dropping them over the pistons. What's the deal here? Is this (another) one of those hotly contested topics?

[Nessism]

I was thinking of switching to a new oil only to flush out crud from the break-in process. Although after reading some more on this, 100 or so miles is probably more appropriate.



My Haynes manual states to "lubricate thoroughly the cylinder bores" before dropping them over the pistons. What's the deal here? Is this (another) one of those hotly contested topics?

I wouldn't worry about oil on the pistons and sleeves, but I wouldn't use assembly lube. As for the oil, go ahead and change it after a couple hundred miles but don't use GTX (unless you are in the UK that is), use diesel oil and stay with diesel oil.

[GSJim69]

When I was in mechanic school (aircraft not motorcyles) they taught us to use straight weight non-detergent oils during break-in. The difference is the lubricating and cleaning properties. The normal oil cleans and lubricates too well and prevents or slows down break-in. Basically, a lower quality oil is used that allows the wear to happen that is called break-in.

It has been a number of years ago. Buy, that is the way I remember it.

[chef1366]

Most of the engine builders I know including myself (use term loosley) wipe the sleeves clean after the hone and install the rings dry.

[bonanzadave]

When I was in mechanic school (aircraft not motorcyles) they taught us to use straight weight non-detergent oils during break-in. The difference is the lubricating and cleaning properties. The normal oil cleans and lubricates too well and prevents or slows down break-in. Basically, a lower quality oil is used that allows the wear to happen that is called break-in.

It has been a number of years ago. Buy, that is the way I remember it.

Thats what Lycoming and Continental want you to believe. Some people dont believe it.

http://www.aviationtoday.com/am/repairstations/The-Mineral-Oil-Myth_564.html

[Nessism]

When I was in mechanic school (aircraft not motorcyles) they taught us to use straight weight non-detergent oils during break-in. The difference is the lubricating and cleaning properties. The normal oil cleans and lubricates too well and prevents or slows down break-in. Basically, a lower quality oil is used that allows the wear to happen that is called break-in.

It has been a number of years ago. Buy, that is the way I remember it.

Millions and millions of gasoline auto engines leave their respective factories each year with regular multi-weight oil in the crankcase and their rings seal up just fine. Lots of engines leave the factory with synthetic oil too, such as BMW's, and they seal up just fine too despite the urban legends about synthetic oil.

[ranger rick]

DO NOT INSTALL YOUR PISTONS AND RINGS DRY!!!!! you'll chew up your rings and jugs at fire up.all rebuild manuals will tell you to lube your cylinders,rings and piston before assembly.yes use assembly lube on your cams it provides a cushion for the tappets until the oil film builds up.(you can flatten a cam lobe real quick without that cushion), it takes several revolutions of the crank to get oil to the moving parts, so they need to be wet before startup.follow proper break in driving as described in your manual."ex" don't lug the engine,no sustained high rpm operation for the first 100 miles or so,vary engine and road speed during break in.brand new engines are run in(broke in) at the factory on test beds(dyno's) before installation so they don't require special oils.

[67fire]

DO NOT INSTALL YOUR PISTONS AND RINGS DRY!!!!! you'll chew up your rings and jugs at fire up.all rebuild manuals will tell you to lube your cylinders,rings and piston before assembly.yes use assembly lube on your cams it provides a cushion for the tappets until the oil film builds up.(you can flatten a cam lobe real quick without that cushion), it takes several revolutions of the crank to get oil to the moving parts, so they need to be wet before startup.follow proper break in driving as described in your manual."ex" don't lug the engine,no sustained high rpm operation for the first 100 miles or so,vary engine and road speed during break in.brand new engines are run in(broke in) at the factory on test beds(dyno's) before installation so they don't require special oils.

We have a winner!
As Ray and I build engines FOR A LIVING,... what the heck do we know???
Listen to all of the "EXPERTS"!
I never HAVE TO rebuild my engines every year.
It is your engine, best wishes.

Eric

[Suzuki_Don]

We have a winner!
As Ray and I build engines FOR A LIVING,... what the heck do we know???
Listen to all of the "EXPERTS"!
I never HAVE TO rebuild my engines every year.
It is your engine, best wishes.

Eric

Hi ERIC,

Would you mind terribly rewording your reply in ENGLISH this time please?

[Suzuki_Don]

How much zinc does the diesel oils have in them. The highest I can find here in OZ is 1200ppm.

[Nessism]

How much zinc does the diesel oils have in them. The highest I can find here in OZ is 1200ppm.

1200 is typical, but some like the T6 Rotella synthetic have about 1350. US market Castrol GTX in comparison has about 800 (as do most auto oils).

[rkjjeep]

Heed the advice of the people on here who build engines.

If you think you put it all back together right, just go get a brand name oil of the correct viscosity and put in a new filter.

Make sure the battery is in good shape, or jump it to a non running car.

Before you hook up the fuel line (so the carb bowls are dry) crank the engine four or five times (maybe 5 second burst each with ten seconds or so in between to cool starter). This will "fill" the oiling system and get a little oil on all the important parts.

Put maybe 10-15 miles on this oil and then do oil/filter change. Go another 100, do an oil and filter change.

Ride and enjoy.