Carb removal

[Anonymous]

Slowly fixing the bugs on the '80 1000G project. Need to clean the carbs from all that sitting it did. Haven't really looked at it, but how hard is it to remove the carbs? Hopefully I can just take them off and clean them real good and should work. Is there I can take off the "bank" of them and leave them connected just to clean? Or am I looking at removing them one by one?

[Anonymous]

You can remove them all still intact. In fact, you'll have to because of the upper and lower brackets holding them all together.

To remove them on the 80 GS1000G, you will need to loosen the screw securing the choke cable and disengage the cable from the carbs. Loosen the locknut on the throttle cable adjusters and loosen the cable adjuster until the throttle cable can be disconnected.

I'm assuming your bike is not an 'L' model, so you won't need to worry about loosening a front clamp to get to the rear bolt on the air box. The bolt should be visible and easily accessible.

Next, loosen the clamp screws securing the carbs to the engine flanges and the air box. Remove the bolts securing the air box to the frame. Pull the air box back as far as possible from the carb throats and remove the air box.

Disconnect the clamps securing the carb vent hoses to the frame. Slide the carbs back out of the engine flanges and remove the carbs.

Installation is just the reverse. Not too bad, huh? It's really rather easy.

Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

Next, loosen the clamp screws securing the carbs to the engine flanges and the air box. Remove the bolts securing the air box to the frame. Pull the air box back as far as possible from the carb throats and remove the air box.

I own a 1978 GS 1000 and the only way for me to get my carbs off is to remove the carbs without removing the air box. The air box won't come out unless I remove the carbs first. Of course the 80 is a newer bike.

Roman

[Anonymous]

That could have been a change between the '78 and '79 years. Fortunately, I've got my Clymer's manual with me (for GS850-1100 shaft drive '79-'84 bikes). I pretty much typed up the steps as described.

[Anonymous]

I think Cragar means you pull the air box towards the back of the bike to get the boots off the carbs, still in the frame.
He also forgot the cussing that's involved when removing 20+ year old rubber boots that have hardened into shape.

[Anonymous]

He also forgot the cussing that's involved when removing 20+ year old rubber boots that have hardened into shape.

Funny....I don't remember reading that.

Actually, my carb boots are nice and soft. They were easily removed. *snicker, snicker*

[Jethro]

Actually, my carb boots are nice and soft. They were easily removed. *snicker, snicker*

Easily removed, maybe. If you tell me they were easy to install, then I will eat my own air filter. What a nightmare getting those boots to sit on the carb body correctly.

[Anonymous]

8O Crud! This is what I have to look forward to.....hopefully, I'll be asking how that air filter tastes.

[Mr. Jiggles]

I found that installation / removal was much easier after I coated the intake and air cleaner boots with silicone vacuum grease (Dow Corning). The stuff is very thick, inert, stands up to very high temps (250F+) and best of all seals air leaks.

I've" heard" others say that armor-all helps but I found that the grease was far superior.

Jeff

[Don Lobacz]

Yes, the 1000G (as well as the "L" model and the 850Gs and 1100Gs) has the easiest stock airbox to remove: it slides back and out! The 1000E, on the other hand, possibly has the most difficult.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: Carb removal

Slowly fixing the bugs on the '80 1000G project. Need to clean the carbs from all that sitting it did. Haven't really looked at it, but how hard is it to remove the carbs? Hopefully I can just take them off and clean them real good and should work. Is there I can take off the "bank" of them and leave them connected just to clean? Or am I looking at removing them one by one?

There are two ways to read what you said. Yes, you take the bank of carbs off as a unit. But if you were wondering if the bank of carbs can be CLEANED INSIDE as a unit, no. If you try to "dip" the carbs in a cleaner you most likely will harden the o-rings and rubber diaphragm(s). Also,you won't get the insides clean this way. You should take the bowls off and the tops and clean everything with gas. You can use carb spray for all the small passages and hard to clean spots, but quickly rinse with gas. If you have access to an air compressor, use it to blow out all the small passages. Keep all the parts in order as you remove and/or do 1 carb at a time.
If the carbs have been sitting too long, the rubber parts are possibly brittle.

[Anonymous]

Good points Keith. I was assuming a simple carb clean without removing the brackets.

[Anonymous]

Now that I think about it, my 78 GS 750 carbs are a breeze to remove, but my 78 GS 1000 is a pain in the rear end to remove.

Roman

[Anonymous]

Thanks Gentleman. I really appreciate your inputs. Didn't really think much about the old intake boots and how brittle they might be. I'll have to keep that in mind.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Gentleman

Where? :P