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re-assembling GS1000 carbs

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    #1

    re-assembling GS1000 carbs

    I know this has probably been gone over before in other threads but I'm no good using the search thingy.

    What I'm looking for is the basic starting point for the pilot screws, and air screws on the side of the carbs. Everything else is just a "screw it in til its tight."

    I'm running a 4 into 1 mac pipe with the baffling material still in the muffler. The factory airbox and lid will still be used with a stock paper filter.
    Right now I can confirm my main jets are 102.5's. I'm not sure about the needles...they might be 2 notches "richer" from factory settings.
    The plugs that came out were very sooty black. They were NGK-B8EV not the B8ES.
    I'm going to throw 4 new B8ES's in when I get it running. Then I'm going to do plug chops.

    So, when I start my chops...which jetting should I check first? My thoughts would be to get it started then just let it idle (after its warmed) and check the pilot setting first.
    Thoughts?
    Tags: None
    #2
    What year?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      What year?
      Damn...I missed that.
      Its `78 1000C.

      My bad.

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        #4
        for stock carbs and air box and a V&H pipe
        i would start with the pilot mixture screws at 3/4 of a turn out from lightly seated and the air screws at 1-1/2 turns out and then tweak them from there use the highest idle method for the air screws once it's running and then go and do some plug chops see what it tells you

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          #5
          Originally posted by Spyderman View Post
          for stock carbs and air box and a V&H pipe
          i would start with the pilot mixture screws at 3/4 of a turn out from lightly seated and the air screws at 1-1/2 turns out and then tweak them from there use the highest idle method for the air screws once it's running and then go and do some plug chops see what it tells you
          The side air screws were 1 1/2 turns out and the pilot screws were 1 1/4 turns out.
          But it would have to be far off (rich) for the plugs to look like this...

          Is it possible that the springs for the pilot screws have weakened and the screws backed out themselves? The peened slot didn't offer any resistance to hold them in. Also, the side air screws were not peened in.

          Last edited by Guest; 03-20-2010, 04:00 PM.

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            #6
            doubtful that they backed out
            i mean it is possible but not likely
            give me a call i sent you my # in a PM

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