Electrical Assistance

[Guest]

So, I pulled my '82 850L out of the shop the other day after a little winter maintenance (mostly brakes and cosmetic) and drove it about 80 feet so I could go get my gear and hit the road. When I went to fire it up I got a very weak staggering idle that got worse with additional throttle. I turned it off to try and turn it back on and started getting power to my dash lights intermittently and seemingly disconnected from how I wiggled the key. I managed to push start it only to have the same terrible idle (sounds like a dying v-twin, not to mention anything by brand) When I went to start it again, after making sure my mixture screws were at 2.5, I received power with the key on but any attempt to push the starter button resulted in a "click" followed by complete power loss. After a couple tries I lost dash lights and the clicking.
My battery is an AGM, fully charged, less than a year old. My circuit tester lights up from the postive terminal of the battery to the negative of the starter relay until I turn the key on. It also shows from the battery to the negative connection on the ignition until I turn the key.
I've looked over the wiring diagram but I can't seem to figure out where I losing power.
Am I shorting out somewhere? Do I have a burnt out component? Is my key cylinder faulty?
I'm sort of lost as to what to test next and how to proceed, I'm on my way to check my fuses (for the third time) and if it's one of those I'll follow this up with a 'Gosh, I feel stupid' post.
Now that the weather has gotten nice, I'm looking for a bit of a quicker fix than ripping out the harness and going over the whole thing with a microscope because I'd just like to ride, but if that's what my next step should be, I'll do it (I plan to next winter anyway.)
Any help in getting pointed in the right direction would be very much appreciated.

[jbs80106]

2 problems?

Sounds like you may have 2 problems, but they may be inter-related. The rough idle to sounds like perhaps you were only running on 2 cylinders? If you get her started again and same rough idle, I'd check to see if all 4 of the exhaust pipes warm up or not.

On the electrics, definately sounds like perhaps a faulty charging system and maybe a loose ground someplace. I'd put the battery on charger to get it full, verify full with voltmeter. Then start chasing the voltage. Same voltage at solinoid (under seat which generates the click when you push start.). Then at the starter.....etc.

Been down the faulty charging system tree a few times, but I'd suspect something else is also wrong if running on 2 cylinders. Bad coil? Got juice at all spark plugs.....but that's beyond my current skill/experience....

[twr1776]

Do you have one of Batteries Plus AGM batteries? There was a bad lot last year and the lot number is in the below thread. I had one in the bad lot and took it in for a load test at the local store and it failed. They were very good on the replacement and I went with the one model up and the two year warranty. Even if the voltage tests decent the battery under load could be no good.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=153303&highlight=battery

[wincefish]

Thanks for the heads up about the battery, key off = 12.7, key on = 4.2. Time to check out a replacement and see where that gets me.

[teddux]

Thanks for the heads up about the battery, key off = 12.7, key on = 4.2. Time to check out a replacement and see where that gets me.

Damn, did you see my post on this?
Check your fuse(box?).
Check those electrical things around your battery (contactor/solenoid), especially the vent part where your vent hose fell off from...including your battery poles/connections.
Key switch Voltage:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/picture.php?albumid=872&pictureid=5206

Fuse:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/picture.php?albumid=872&pictureid=5230

Have you tried "jumping" the battery?

[twr1776]

Today 12:00 PM wincefish I'm looking for a bit of a quicker fix than ripping out the harness and going over the whole thing with a microscope because I'd just like to ride, but if that's what my next step should be, I'll do it (I plan to next winter anyway.)

Unfortunately there is no other way to cure electrical gremlins than to go through the harness and headlight bucket. You could also burn up a stator and R/R while running if you do not do this and really create a bigger problem. You do not have to take the harness out, just pull apart all connections, all grounds, clean, grease, and re-assemble them one at a time. It will take maybe most of a day but it sure beats being stranded away from home or burning up expensive electrical parts.

Where did you get your battery? If it is less than a year old I would get it load tested first before replacing it, it should have a warranty of some kind. As teddyx and jbs80106 mention it could be other problems that are draining the battery. Verify your battery is good first, start with the stator papers and then work your way through the rest of the system.

[wincefish]

I'm perplexed!

My battery was from the bad lot at Batteries Plus, they were quite helpful and replaced it without a hassle, and that seemed to solve my problem. I've been out riding but last night I went to start the bike up and the moment I pushed the start button my lights went out. No juice.
I push started it this morning and it runs at 1000 RPM but no higher no matter what I do with the throttle.
However, if I turn the headlight from low to high or vice versa the RPM jumps 500 or so and returns to 1000. The horn does the same thing. The turn signals push my RPM up near 4000!
I'm going to clean my electrical contacts today but it seems like something else is going on. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

[twr1776]

Glad to hear the Batteries Plus folks took care of you.

As far as your "new" problem I have no idea why electrical load would make the idle jump like that. Is the bike new to you? Have you been to Cliffs site or tested the electricals per the stator papers to see how your system is doing?

[wincefish]

Glad to hear the Batteries Plus folks took care of you.

As far as your "new" problem I have no idea why electrical load would make the idle jump like that. Is the bike new to you? Have you been to Cliffs site or tested the electricals per the stator papers to see how your system is doing?

I started trying to work my way through the stator papers and realized I couldn't get my idle up above 1000 rpm, thus my post hoping someone recognizes the symptoms. Makes me wish I knew electrical systems.

[jpaul]

If you can't get the idle over 1000 rpm, I would start looking at carb issues.

[wincefish]

If you can't get the idle over 1000 rpm, I would start looking at carb issues.

I'm pretty sure it's not carbs, it'll go up to 4000 rpm if I turn on the turn signals.