GS1000 Fork disassembly question

[Anonymous]

Usually I remove the allen bolt at the bottom using an impact gun before I remove the top cap and spring. This time, though, the insides just turn around and the bolt won't break loose. Soooooooo, I have to hold it from the inside. My question is, what do I use to hold it from the inside. Obviously, I can't see down in there so I haven't a clue what to use. I tried various allen drivers but I get the impression its not a socket head.
Any help would be appreciated.
Al

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I would also like to know, for future reference. A few people here have discussed this earlier and one of them even made a tool for this job, but they never explained the tool. When I replied to ask about this tool, the person did'nt reply back. I wish I had printed out the other replies. I THINK they said you use the square top on a 3/4'' plug socket ??? There's obviously more to it. Hope we both get the answer.

[focus frenzy]

that might have been me, sorry!
it is a socket head, you can use a spark plug socket turned over so the 3/4/19mm head goes in first and use lots of extensions to reach.
Or you can do like me and get a nut that mesures 19mm and weld it to a 3 foot piece of rod and weld a T on top, I used 1/2" stock steel rod, works great.

[Anonymous]

My ?special tool? to hold the damper rod: a 5/8ths hex-head spark plug tool with the square drive hole penetrating the entire top (I used Sears Craftsman #G 43324), plus enough socket extensions to reach at least 26?. You insert the socket extensions inside the spark plug socket so the hex head is facing down into the fork tube........that is why the drive hole has to penetrate the entire top of the spark plug socket. Some people have mentioned using a 3/4" spark plug socket (3/4" ~ 19mm, 5/8" ~ 16mm).

As I recall, the top of the damping rod is a shallow cone depression made of fairly soft metal. What you are doing is getting a "friction" fit (where the hex head digs in slightly), rather than a precise mechanical fit. Some people have even been successful in using broom handles down the fork tube to stop the damper rod from turning.

I hope that this helps answer your question.

Simon

[KEITH KRAUSE]

that might have been me, sorry!
it is a socket head, you can use a spark plug socket turned over so the 3/4/19mm head goes in first and use lots of extensions to reach.
Or you can do like me and get a nut that mesures 19mm and weld it to a 3 foot piece of rod and weld a T on top, I used 1/2" stock steel rod, works great.

Thank you focus! I never got up from the keyboard. I knew the mystery man would come forth!

[saaz]

I am too lazy to make a special tool, so I just put in a 19mm nut (just happen to have some off a car wheel) in a socket that sticks out of the socket. I use a few long adaptors on the wrench to insert into the fork leg.

[Anonymous]

I bought a 1/2" threaded rod and four 1/2 nuts at Lowes. I put two of the nuts at the end of the rod and tightened them toward each other so they got in an bind, and just for luck put some epoxy on the bottom nut.

It had been my intention to buy a 3 ft rod and have nuts at both ends -- one end would go in the fork tube, the other end would have a wrench on it. However, all Lowes had was a 6 ft. rod. I put one end of the rod in a gutter grate and leaned on it to make a bend of not quite 90 degrees and then cut off the portion I didn't need.

With the bent portion on the garage floor I was able to lean on the Allen wrench a little harder.

Wrapping the threads in duct tape will keep the threads off the inside of the tube and, well, sometimes it's just fun to use duct tape.

Had Lowes had the 3 ft rod, the total cost would have been about $5.00. It came to almost $9.00 with the longer rod.