Several carb issues

[Demonthrall]

I have done a ton of reading, so I know the usual things : Clean carbs, adjust valves, check airbox, etc.. I do need some help narrowing things down now.

Alright, here goes:

-1982 GS550LZ - Previous owner drilled baffles (and little holes too?)

-I dipped and bench synched the carbs (Thanks Cliff for all the info!!)
-I had to replace the valve gasket because it was leaking a month ago, so I measured the shims, but did not replace anything YET. I did put it back together so I could ride a couple of times these last few nice days we've had in MN.
-E1 and E2 had zero clearance (rubbing) while the rest were between .05 and .12. The PO had half of them turned backwards, so I will have to put a 2.50 in and measure each one (my best idea?), then buy shims from z1.
-I assume the ones with the bigger spaces are whats causing the "clacking noise"


-After I put everything together again (after carb dip, bench synch and valve gasket replace) The port side exhaust has white smoke coming out, and it backfires a little)
-The engine when revved, hangs high (which it did beforehand)
-Air Screw on carb #2 is stuck closed now (the others are about 2.5 turns out)


So, obviously the air screw is a problem, but can you guys give some insight? I know zero clearance on the valves can be bad, but what are symptoms of that?

I have purchased a jetkit (stage iii) from Z1, as well as the 2.50 shim so I can measure, then do it right. I plan to unlodge the airscrew #2 when I take the carbs off again.

Here's yet another question, since I am buying the jetkit, the baffles are drilled, would it be a dumb idea to buy the pods at this point? I dont even know if they'll fit actually, does anyone know this? It looks like on carbs 1 and 4 it would be really tight.


God bless you in advance if you can make sense of the above rambling. I appreciate any help that you can give.

[renobruce]

The hanging idle sounds like an intake leak. Did you replace the orings that are on the intake boots that mount to the head? When you dipped the carbs, did you replace the orings and reset the float height? Make sure those items are addressed. Also, I wouldn't try to diagnose anything until the valves are set right.

[Demonthrall]

I did not replace any intake rings or o rings... is there a visual somewhere on where those are? Also where are they on Z1's site. Can't find them at first glance? Thanks

[Demonthrall]

I did spray carb cleaner around the boots, and there was no effect on the idle speed btw..?

[renobruce]

I did not replace any intake rings or o rings... is there a visual somewhere on where those are? Also where are they on Z1's site. Can't find them at first glance? Thanks

The intake boots are between the head and the carbs. If you take them off there is an oring there. All the info and the parts you need are here:

www.cycleorings.com

This site is run by a member here. As you can see, the parts are cheap, but needed!

[Demonthrall]

will order. Do you know what size my intake o rings will be? didnt realize they were this cheap. Would they be the 32mm ones??

[Demonthrall]

bump bump bump

[renobruce]

According to that website, your bike uses 38mm intake orings.

[TheCafeKid]

How do you know that the PO drilled the baffles?? IIRC the "L" models had the big main hole in the middle of the muffler, and then the little ones around it too were also open to give it that "burbling" motorboat sound that the "L" models were known for. And, the little holes?? Are you talking about the little holes further up the muffler near the foot pegs?? If so, THOSE are stock, they're drains for condensation, to help keep the mufflers from rotting from the inside out..

And, not to beat a dead horse, but untill your VALVES are adjusted, you shouldnt really mess with the carburetion, because once you adjust the valves you'll have different needs from your carburetors. And believe me, if you leave them unadjusted long enough, you'll have WAY more problems than you do now, up to and including burnt valves, pistons, etc. IF the bike will even start after a while. When the valves go unadjusted for so long, they eventually wont close all the way, and then you'll have no compression, and then the bike simply will not start. You simply HAVE to do your duties here, because otherwise you'll be chasing your tail for months. And I say this as one who tried to cut corners way back when, and learned the hard way.. cut THESE corners, and you'll spend more time doing it wrong, than doing it right the first time..

[Demonthrall]

The PO told me he drilled them. It sounded cool when he started it at the time, I wish I knew all the problems that would have come with it later. My mistake.


Thanks for identifying them as 38mm.