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Yep, you heard it here first, folks!!
I took of my header today, and only broke TWO BOLTS!!
(insert four-lettered expletive here)
Not like I wasn't expecting it - after the multiple threads about failed attempts at getting broken exhaust bolts out. I went nice and slowly, expecting to feel a bolt give if it were going to snap. But the thing that gets me is there was no indication at all. A little resistance starting out, as if it were coming out on its own - then it got very easy to turn, and then it was broken.
I'm definitely going to take the head into a shop for removal - I'm not playing around with screw extractors. And I don't think that it's simply a matter of electro-chemical welding between the steel bolts and the aluminum head. If this were the case, I'd imagine that I'd have had to torque on the bolts to get them out, and the break would have come from applying too much force. But since there was virtually no resistance, I'd assume that the bolts failed because of the difference in heat dissipation between the exposed bolt head and the half that has been threaded into the aluminum head for 20 years, coupled with exposure to the elements - they both broke right at the head. In fact, several of the bolts looked as if they had been spot-welded at the first exposed thread, but non-exposed threads were fine, so I'd thow mechanical failure in there as a cause, too.
The sad thing is that it's not something you can upgrade without first breaking a bolt or two - if your header is in good shape, why risk taking it off to replace the hardware? Bleah.
On a lighter note, I did manage to rebuild the petcock rather successfully - aside from tweaking the spring clip that depresses the primer diaphragm. Got it sorted, though. And it was in great shape - no varnish, no sludge. Just a matter of greasing the switch o-ring, and it's alot smoother.
Also got the Katana kill switch and throttle hooked up - had to use the factory GS harness plug and splice the new wires in place. The Katana plug is the same size and shape, but there's no ground pin inside. I used the Katana throttle cable, since it needs an additional clip to hold it in place that will not come off of the cable with the lugs on the ends. Adjusted the throttle sleeve length, and it's all working. Plus, the Katana master cylinder uses a plunger type brake light switch that won't wear out like the GS part (although the clutch switch is identical - go figure). The signal control and choke was a different story - the plug mates up exactly, but it needed an external ground wire. And I had to cut the end off of the choke cable, but had enough slack to crimp a new end on (lead fishing weight). I'll replace both with new cables when I tear it down this winter, but I'm just happy to have shiny new plastic bodied controls that won't pit or corrode like the stockers...
Okay, enough with the words - time for a beer. I just have to wait and see if the JB-Weld gas tank patch cures right...
-Q!
I took of my header today, and only broke TWO BOLTS!!
(insert four-lettered expletive here)
Not like I wasn't expecting it - after the multiple threads about failed attempts at getting broken exhaust bolts out. I went nice and slowly, expecting to feel a bolt give if it were going to snap. But the thing that gets me is there was no indication at all. A little resistance starting out, as if it were coming out on its own - then it got very easy to turn, and then it was broken.
I'm definitely going to take the head into a shop for removal - I'm not playing around with screw extractors. And I don't think that it's simply a matter of electro-chemical welding between the steel bolts and the aluminum head. If this were the case, I'd imagine that I'd have had to torque on the bolts to get them out, and the break would have come from applying too much force. But since there was virtually no resistance, I'd assume that the bolts failed because of the difference in heat dissipation between the exposed bolt head and the half that has been threaded into the aluminum head for 20 years, coupled with exposure to the elements - they both broke right at the head. In fact, several of the bolts looked as if they had been spot-welded at the first exposed thread, but non-exposed threads were fine, so I'd thow mechanical failure in there as a cause, too.
The sad thing is that it's not something you can upgrade without first breaking a bolt or two - if your header is in good shape, why risk taking it off to replace the hardware? Bleah.
On a lighter note, I did manage to rebuild the petcock rather successfully - aside from tweaking the spring clip that depresses the primer diaphragm. Got it sorted, though. And it was in great shape - no varnish, no sludge. Just a matter of greasing the switch o-ring, and it's alot smoother.
Also got the Katana kill switch and throttle hooked up - had to use the factory GS harness plug and splice the new wires in place. The Katana plug is the same size and shape, but there's no ground pin inside. I used the Katana throttle cable, since it needs an additional clip to hold it in place that will not come off of the cable with the lugs on the ends. Adjusted the throttle sleeve length, and it's all working. Plus, the Katana master cylinder uses a plunger type brake light switch that won't wear out like the GS part (although the clutch switch is identical - go figure). The signal control and choke was a different story - the plug mates up exactly, but it needed an external ground wire. And I had to cut the end off of the choke cable, but had enough slack to crimp a new end on (lead fishing weight). I'll replace both with new cables when I tear it down this winter, but I'm just happy to have shiny new plastic bodied controls that won't pit or corrode like the stockers...
Okay, enough with the words - time for a beer. I just have to wait and see if the JB-Weld gas tank patch cures right...
-Q!
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