Rear wheel removal -- '81GL -- axle nut question

[Anonymous]

I have a Clymer manual. I'm trying to remove the rear wheel on an '81GL.

The manual suggests that there is a cotter pin/axle nut piece on the caliper side of the bike (the passenger side if it were a car). I would proceed to removing this nut following the removal of the bolt that holds the brake hose to the swing arm. The picture shows this brake hose bolt and axle nut all in the same photo.

I don't have an axle nut on that side of the bike. I do have a bolt on the shaft side right where the axle is. I'm guessing this is the bolt to remove -- however, I'm the guy who swapped his cam shafts around and hesitate to take too much for granted.

Is the bolt I remove on the shaft side?

Furthermore, I was unable to quickly find a slot to slip the socket handle of the tool kit through to support the rear wheel via the frame boss and swing arm. I've got the swing arm supported with a jack stand. Is there such a slot?

Finally, the picture in which it is suggested I use the phillips head shaft from the tool kit to keep the bike from rolling off the center stand is hard to follow. Is there a hole under there allowing for a connection similar to that which you'd find on a Reece hitch -- and the shaft of the phillips head screwdriver makes a nice, neat connection ... or do I wedge it in the gap between the centerstand and the centerstand housing at the hinge -- in a manner similar to that of a finger that gets stuck at the hinge end of a door (just before the cursing starts).

[Anonymous]

I suspect that your 81 GS850GL is not an 81, but an 82. The 82 has the rear axle go into the wheel from the brake caliper side, left toward the differential side. The 82 does not have that provision for securing the bike on the centerstand, which may explain why you can't find it.

Check the date of manufacture. If it was manufactured in the latter part of 1981, then it's an 82 model. You can find that info on the steering stem.

The 81 model does not have a tubeless front wheel. If your front wheel is clearly stamped "tubeless", then it's an 82. If it's a "pentagram" spoke pattern, and it does not say "tubeless" somewhere on the front rim, then your bike is an 81 model.

Another identification procedure -- the choke. Is your choke cable activated by a lever underneath the left-hand turn signal/horn/dimmer switch? If so, your bike is an 82 model. If the choke cable is actuated by pulling a knob right behind the upper triple tree, then it's an 81.

If you wish, e-mail me a detailed picture(s) of your bike, and I'll identify it for you. This may explain the mystery.

Hope this helps. If not, at least we try...

Nick

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the quick reply.

The steering stem indicates the bike was manufacutred 12/80. The front wheel is marked 'tubless applicable' with some additional hard-to-read-by-flashlight text. And the choke is activated by pulling a know below the tach/speedomerter assemblies.

Delmer

[argonsagas]

Delmer:


Before doing anything with the rear wheel, find a piece of 2 x 4 about 18 inches long. (2x6 is better, as it gives you more space to work with) Place it under the centre stand.

Yo have two cotter pins to remove, one bolt to loosen, four nuts to remove.

The cotter pins are on the axle, and on the brake shaft retainer, near the passenger peg on the right side.

One bolt is the axle bolt. After the cotter pin is removed, remove the nut from the axle.

Loosen one small (10 mm head) bolt that locks the axle in place, on the right side, at the back of the axle mount.

Two nuts are for the lower shock mounts. Remove them. Pull the shocks away from the lower mounts.

Hint....you may want a broomstick to pry the muffler aside just enough to remove the shocks.


The last nut is the brake retainer bar. Remove that nut and pull out the bolt.

Pull the brake parts to the right, and tie them back.

Use a long punch and push out the axle.

WATCH CAREFULLY

There will be two spacers that fall loose when the axle is removed.
Note their position. They have to go back in the same position when reassembling the wheel onto the bike.

....If you have a rear fender mudflap extension, remove it now)

Push the wheel aside....you may have to knock it a bit, as it may stick in place. You want it far enough toward the right that it comes loose from the drive mechanism.

Pull the wheel/tire from the bottom towards the right and it should come loose enough to remove from the bike.

If you have a hydraulic jack ( and you said you did), you may want to lift the drive unit a bit....just a bit...to add a little more space to wiggle the wheel/tire.

If you still have that mudflap in place, you will be discovering that the wheel will not come out. You now have a choice...raise the bike higher still, or remove the mudflap as previously mentioned.


Use a good quality grease (NOT white grease) on the drive teeth before re-assembly. Make sure every tooth gets a bit of grease.

To reassemble it, reverse everything.

First....rub a light coating of grease on the axle.

Hint

For installing the axle, put the larger spacer in place FIRST, then raise the wheel into place and put the the smaller smaller spacer on the outside. Now slide the axle bolt into place.

(It will be easier if you use your pin punch to help get the wheel back on the gear drive first...then the axle will slide right in.).....

Other hint:

Putting a board under the tire will help to raise it enough that you can push the wheel over and onto the drive teeth, but you can do it with your knee .....takes only a couple of seconds.

Drop the brake unit back in place, first checking ot see that the hydraulic line is where it should be. Drop the brake retainer back in place and re-insert the bolt.

Tighten everything properly. Double check that everything is tight, and insert / twist cotter pins.

Also note....Clymer suggests you loosen the mufflers. This is not necessary if you follow the above instructions. The 2x4 (or 2x6) gives you enough additional clearance to pull the axle bolt without any problem.

[Mobetter]

Getting ready to do a rear wheel removal.
Just responding to this to bring it back up on the front page
to make it easy to find.
Ron gives some good advice

Mo