Re-build complete, all set to go tomorrow...

[Dave_A]

Ok, it's done.

New pistons, new rings, cyls honed, new gaskets, and new valves (with associated shimming, etc).

Also replaced the tensioner (cause of the re-build was a valve-strike)...

Valve timing is right, and I've turned the motor over by hand and with the starter... There's enough compression to pop my thumb off the plug hole on both sides...

I used Permatex 'Copper' gasket-maker to 'fill in' for the incorrect cylinder cover gasket, and will be taking care of that over the next week or so...

I have to wait 24hrs for the Permatex to set up, so there will be no riding tomorrow. I plan to follow the following 're-activation' sequence:

1) Fill engine with oil

2) Pour a small amount of oil into each cylinder

3) Hold down the starter with no plugs intstalled to get oil moving through before start-up

4) Start up, warm up, set the idle, and rev up a bit for testing/ring wear-in reasons

Any other suggestions for what to do with my semi-new motor???

Any stuff to avoid, procedures to follow, etc???

[Anonymous]

Take long rides, avoid cold starts is what I was told. Keep revs reasonable, don't keep at same RPM a long time is also common advice, which I followed. Anyway, I did this and had the exact work you did done to my GPz1100, and followed same procedure you mention (plus what I added), and after 500 miles, it's blowing oil worse than before. Goes back to shop for leakdown test today. I wish you better luck than I. All that (meticulously done) assembly has to be redone - I'm bummed.

Tom

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm not a real expert on this subject, but I have always had good luck with all my vehicles by breaking them in at several different engine speeds. Some highway riding, mixed in with some slower backroad riding. Avoid sudden acceleration.
Use straight 30 wt. to break in. No multi wt. stuff. I never knew this was the best thing to do until I had my motor completely rebuilt by Vance&Hines 3 1/2 years ago. I trust the lead mechanic there and have read some articles backing him up. I'm not saying that multi wt. oil will cause a problem, but I believe your best chance at breaking in the engine right is with straight 30 wt.
Also, I noticed they smeared some "white paste grease" on my cam lobes as I was installing the cover. I was also told to re-torque the head bolts at about 750 miles. The brief info that came with the new head gasket also said this.

[daveo]

Several things,after initial startup, make sure you have a good fan blowing over the engine as you set up carbs, I then shut her down and let cool to ambient temp, overnight, or 8-10 hrs. then retorque the head bolts or (nuts), you'll be surpised at how much they'll have changed. I do this at least 3 times or until there is no change in torque. When decellerating, use engine braking,with the clutch out to set the rings, keep rpms varying. Change oil and filter at no more than 500 mi.

[Dave_A]

Thanks

I did a short run-up and set the idle tonight... All's well so far, it was smokey from the oil I had in the cyls, and the ceramic paint I put on the headers...

I'm leaking a little from the oilpan (I changed the pan gasket after a bolt fell in the pan & I took the pan down), so I need to re-torque those bolts tomorrow...

But, most importantly, IT RUNS!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

And I hope it keeps right on a runnin'. 8)

[Dave_A]

I finally did some riding today...

The oil-burning has stopped, as all the oil I had put in the cylinders has burned away now...

The header paint is cured up, so the headers no longer smoke...

I get a little smoke from the fins, as there's some grease & grime on there from when the thing was getting re-assembled, but apart from that, clean running (used to burn oil on start up from one side, pre-rebuild. FIXED.)

I had a little trouble starting (bike wouldn't turn over w/o a booster battery), but I traced that to a dry battery (DOH! Batteries need water to produce juice... Simple things sometimes...)... Put water in, and everything's back to normal...

So my DIY engine refit was a success... And the Copper RTV *DID* work fine as a gasket substitute. I'm still going to get a real valve cover gasket for it, but that will take a while...