Crank case FULL of gas HELP ?????????????

[Anonymous]

Newbie here with a BIG problem, so please stick with the story and PLEASE help me out.........

OK so I finally started taking about the FREE 1981 GS750 a friend gave me. He gave it to me because about 4 years ago he had the engine completely rebuilt and it ran great. Then he loaned it out to a friend and the battery caught on fire. It melted the battery and all the wiring around the battery, but never got to the air cleaner or engine.

Now the problem is, he just put it away in his garage and it sat for 4 years like that till I got it a few weeks ago.

I go to drain the oil and I get about 2 gallons of gas that come out of the crank case drain plug. Of course I take the stator cover off and it was full of gas also and I take the clutch cover off an it was full of gas too.

SO, what would of caused this, and what would it have ruined ??? Will I need to replace the whole clutch or can I let it all dry out and reuse it the plates and fibers ?

What about the engine ? do you think anything was damaged ?

WHAT DO I DO ??????????

Thanks,
J

[argonsagas]

Your engine is probably fine, as long as it was not run at all with the gas in the sump, as that would have damaged the bearings.

If the crankcase was that full, it seems highly doubtful that it could have been run anyway.

You will need to check the petcock and overhaul the carbs, starting with
the floats, needles, and o-rings, which are probably shot.

The fuel leaks because


A-The petcock is probably set to PRIme, but it could be defective.
B-The floats/needles are not sealing the fuel flow
C-The float bowls overflow, allowing the fuel to run into the carbs.
D-Probably, the bike has been on the sidestand, so the fuel has a better chance to run into the engine



Leave the drain plug out and let it drip dry for a day or more, to be sure all the gasoline has gone.. Open the filter cover, and discard the filter.


Install a new filter and replace the oil.

Address all those things fully before doing anything else to make it run.

[Anonymous]

Yes the bike did sit on the side stand for the 4 or so years it sat in his garage.

Im not sure how the petcock works in these bikes, but it was pointing down when I picked the bike up from my friend.

When I turn the throttle the slides in the carbs wont move, they are frozen, I guess thats due to the gas setting in them so long and finally guming all up ?????????

Thanks for your help, ill let everything dry out and ill put it all back together and see if I can get it running.

J

[argonsagas]

Not so fast, please.


Don't overlook the carb overhaul part. The carbs need a FULL overhaul.
There is a very good description of the procedure on this Forum, in the section called In the Garage.

The instructions cover the carbs on several models, and will be close on even more. Follow them.



You might also pull off the tank, invert it, and flush it. Look for rust particles.

Even if you get very few, install an in-line fuel filter before your next start.

[argonsagas]

Another small point...


Since there is absolutely NO lubrication on your bearings, before you turn the engine over, pull out all the plugs.

Turn it over with no load a few times, to get some oil back where it is needed.

[Anonymous]

Seen this before

I had an identical problem with a KZ650. The diaphragms in the petcock are rotten and fuel is running into the carbs and then cylinders, then crankcase. You will probably find fuel leaking not only into the engine through the carbs, but also through the vacuum line for the petcock.

Rebuild all the carbs and the petcock. Go down to the Yamaha dealer and get a quart of their carb cleaner. It's wonderful stuff. You mix it with gasoline and you can throw the ENTIRE carb in there, rubber parts and all, without it eating them. Don't put it in the tank, though. It'll knock everything loose and clog up the whole shebang. Probably better clean the tank out and put a fuel filter on it, too. That tank is BOUND to be rusted up from sitting that long.

Good suggestion on oiling the cylinders argon. They are bound to be washed absolutely dry.

[Anonymous]

I actually have another set of carbs I got of a running bike that I am going to do a rebuild on then install.

The tank does have rust in it, I think I am going to use one of those kits to clean the rust out and seal the tank. Is it work doing the tank clean and seal kit thing ? or should I just empty it and flush it really well and add an inline fuel filter ?

Thanks for the lubing idea with the plugs out, I forgot all about that.

Thanks for everything I need all the help I can get since this is the first bike I have done any kinda of real work on, I am more of an auto restorer than bike restorer, but I guess a lot of it is the same.

J

[Anonymous]

When I turn the throttle the slides in the carbs wont move, they are frozen, I guess thats due to the gas setting in them so long and finally guming all up ?????????
J

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe this year had CV carbs. You won't see the slides move from the airbox side without the engine running. You should be able to push them up though, and they should come back down, fairly qucikly, but there should be some resistance to it.

[Anonymous]

Another small point...


Since there is absolutely NO lubrication on your bearings, before you turn the engine over, pull out all the plugs.

Turn it over with no load a few times, to get some oil back where it is needed.

(Assuming you've put new oil/filter in first) Pour a teaspoon of clean motor oil into each cylinder, or the equivalent aerosol fogging oil according to the manufacterers instructions, before you turn the motor over.

If you are using the electric starter to turn the motor over, ground the (removed) sparkplugs/leads to the motor first.

Sparkplugs out, you can turn the motor over manually if it's not all jammed up - put the transmission into high gear, then turn the rear wheel in the direction of usual rotation. I don't think you could pump any oil to the top end manually, though!

I'd definitely want to oil through the plug holes and turn it manually to lube the cylinder walls before I tried to start it up or otherwise turn it over.

[Anonymous]

Hi J
I got my first bike this summer, an 81 gs400. I did the same thing, on a smaller scale, filled the crankcase and surroundings with gas. What I figure did mine in was that I had the tank and petcock off to clean it all out, anyways, when I put the petcock back together, I missed one of the corners on the vacuum gasket and gas could feed by gravity, like it were set to prime, although I do not have a prime setting on mine, just on and reserve, although there is a thread out there to get it to set to off, another story. Anyways, it should still run, but listen to everything these guys have to say, unless you get a couple of very differing opinions, then I'd say go with the concensus, or use your common sense. As a side note, can someone tell me where to get an inline fuel filter? And for j's sake, just email me instead of posting a reply here(barryrb@fundy.net). Best of luck j, you're gonna love the GS.

[argonsagas]

Al's point about the oil on top of the piston is definitely a necessity.

...(Dam...I hate admitting a cop is right....Ah, well...there is no ticket...this time )

My apology for not mentioning it.

And thanks, Al, for the correction.



In-line fuel filters are available at any auto parts store. If you have any doubt about the direction of flow, ask before you leave the store.

Stay away from glass-body filters....they break too easily.

Smaller metal or plastic ones will do the job well.

There are various types of filter media....ask about them, and ask if pressure is needed. Some will not function well unless there is pump pressure to force the fuel through. You have only gravity.


Tank clean and re-line?

My suggestion is to forget the DIY stuff. The chemicals involved are temperature and humidity sensitive, and both the chemicals and their vapours are VERY toxic.

Look in the Yellow Pages and look for a radiator repair outlet that will do it, or gas tank repair shop that does this as their principal work.

You might pay about twice the amount of a DIY kit, but it is completely done, and professionally done, (with a 2 year guarantee, if you use the folks I used)