engine misses at lower rpm's

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi. I don't think a small piece of fuel line would give you an intermittent problem. If the fuel passage was clogged by it, it would most likely stay clogged. When going through the carbs, I would blow out all the passages with compressed air, 200 lbs if you have it.
To ride your bike 150 miles with no problem and then have the problem show up the next 75 miles is interesting. Did it do this while cruising? What rpm? Did it happen suddenly with no change in throttle, or did it happen when you changed throttle position or came to a stop? Does it happen with petcock at "on" and also reserve? A problem that comes and goes like this may never show itself.
Rather than spending time riding/testing, I would take that time and re-check the carbs. You said they were clean, etc, but you also said the problem started after the carbs were serviced. There are a lot of things you can do wrong or miss when doing carb work. I would focus on the moving parts like the throttle valves, the floats and float needles. The carb synch' may help. Check the throttle valves for any possible "sticking". I would also put the mixture screws back to where they were. Adjusting these richer as you said you did, is just trying to compensate for the real problem and may make it harder to find the real problem. It may help to temporarily remove the fuel filter and just run a straight line for now and see what happens. Do you have the correct size fuel line? I use 5/16".
By the way, about your mentioning your rubber boots/manifolds, if you had an intake leak, your idle would be higher than normal once warmed up. A serious leak would result in an rpm increase of 500 or more.
Well, let us know how things go.
I'm really kind of out of ideas. I would rip into those carbs.

[Anonymous]

engine misses

hi kieth. i may be onto something. yesterday after about an hour of riding the bike acted up again at about 3000-4000 rpm's. i believe it did as i slowed down coming into a town(using 3-4k rpm range). i really dont notice it when cruisng above about 4000rpm's. happens regardless of petcock position. i started pulling spark plug wires and listening/running bike. finally i twisted all the plug wires in the opposite direction that they were and drove away. i sware the bike accelerated harder and the misses/stumbling cleared up. when i hammered it i could feel the fork tubes top out- never felt that before. possibly 1 or more wires is shorting or internally a wire is breaking and i have it bent such that it's joined for now. i'll have to let the next couple rides determine if it's temporarily fixed and then decide on the dyna coils. i read that with the dyna coils("dyna s" i believe), that you don't need the ignitor.is that true? i'll probably ride today and post results later. thanks again for all your help kieth.

[Anonymous]

engine misses

hi kieth. i may be onto something. yesterday after about an hour of riding the bike acted up again at about 3000-4000 rpm's. i believe it did as i slowed down coming into a town(using 3-4k rpm range). i really dont notice it when cruisng above about 4000rpm's. happens regardless of petcock position. i started pulling spark plug wires and listening/running bike. finally i twisted all the plug wires in the opposite direction that they were and drove away. i sware the bike accelerated harder and the misses/stumbling cleared up. when i hammered it i could feel the fork tubes top out- never felt that before. possibly 1 or more wires is shorting or internally a wire is breaking and i have it bent such that it's joined for now. i'll have to let the next couple rides determine if it's temporarily fixed and then decide on the dyna coils. i read that with the dyna coils("dyna s" i believe), that you don't need the ignitor.is that true? i'll probably ride today and post results later. thanks again for all your help kieth.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi. Hope you have found the problem. I can't answer your question about the Dyna coils and getting rid of the ignitor box. I think I have heard the same thing though. Dynatek is right out here where I live. They are probably on the web, but if you need their phone # I have it in the garage.

[Anonymous]

engine misses

i did about 6 hours today and the problem didn't show up. i'll be convinced after 2 or 3 more rides. my carb tune II should be here in about a week also. i'll keeping posting updates in the meanwhile. the full dress tourers are catching my eye again(had an 88' goldwing in 88'). what could this mean for the "gs" !!

[earlfor]

The Dyna "S" ignition system does not use and cannot use an ignitor box.
(I have one on my bench now) You do not have to use Dyna coils with it.
You can use your stock coils and they will do just fine.

Earl

Hi. Hope you have found the problem. I can't answer your question about the Dyna coils and getting rid of the ignitor box. I think I have heard the same thing though. Dynatek is right out here where I live. They are probably on the web, but if you need their phone # I have it in the garage.

[Anonymous]

engine misses

thanks earl. does the entire dyna s ignition system consist of a signal generator and the optional coils you mentioned? nothing in between? i believe my signal generator is ok (read about 340 ohms cold, but 410 ohms hot). i assume the measurement needs to be taken cold. i asked about the dyna s because my plug wires may be on their way out, so i was considering dyna s coils.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi. My only experience with Dyna "S" ignitions, is with the one that fits my bike ('79 GS1000E). My bike never had any signal generator or CDI box, or whatever they call it. For my bike, the Dyna "S" consists of a mounting plate with 2 sensors. It is intended to replace the stock points system. The last I heard, it requires a mechanical advancer. Your bike has an electronic
ignition, but what kind of advancer unit do you have? Dyna also sells Hi-performance coils seperately. They claim to provide 35,000 volts, instead of the stock (on my bike) 10,000 volts.

[Anonymous]

engine misses

behind my signal generator i see arched arms with springs attached, so i believe i have a mechanical advance unit.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi. If you're interested, you can check with Dynatek about an ignition and coils for your bike.
Address: Dynatek
164 S. Valencia St.
Glendora, Calif. 91741

Phone# 626-963-1669
Fax: 626 963-7399

[Anonymous]

engine misses

thanks again kieth

[Anonymous]

engine misses

how's it going kieth ? i found 2 of my spark plug boots were way off on their resistance readings. if you're interested, see the lengthy (sorry) details under my topic post "spark plug boots/caps". my last reply there tells all. i replaced boots with NGK's and notice a stronger running bike. i had no stumbling/missing problems today. i need 2 more rides to conclude if it's fixed. thanks for helping kieth. i'll post again after a couple rides.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm still here. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Let us know how it goes.

[Anonymous]

Hey Guys I was following your post's and I wanted to throw one more think that happened to me. You mentioned your charge sys was good.
I had a problem a lot like yours, interm, temp, hesitation and miss. I did alot of the checks you did. I found once my bike heated up my return voltage went from 15.2volt @4,000rpm down to 11.2 at the lowest point and still at 4,000rpm. Basicly as my battery voltage would drop my bike had the above symptoms. After a cold start, long ride, hot day, my stator was good but my regulator was wacked out. Try testing your regulator output at different temps and rpm.
Just a thought
Mark

[Anonymous]

engine misses

the plug boots didn't help. i'm having the same problem. it showed up y'day about 20 minutes into a 2 hour drive- then it just cleared up. today it showed up about an hour and a half into my return trip and never cleared up. i just pulled the carbs and so far they look fine although i'm not totally into them yet. 2 of the intake manifolds have only surface cracks, i dont think air is passing thru. the primary on both coils reads about 4.4 ohms (bike only slightly warm now). suzuki says $123 for 2 intake manifolds-forget that. i'll look around, but i dint think they're faulty. i may be wrong. i wish i had checked the return voltage per the last post before i tore the carbs off. i'm getting away from the bike for today, i'll keep ya's posted.