Air screws and o-rings (and other carb questions)

[Jethro]

Over last winter I had the bike somewhat disasembled. I had grand visions of new rings, crank bearings, new tranny, carb rebuild, head work- I'm sure others have been there. Well, spring came and I hadn't done a damn thing so I snapped it back together somehow. One thing I noticed when the carbs were in 100 pieces on the bench- the o-rings everywhere in the carbs didn't look that bad. Is it possible that they could be bad even though they look and feel like any rubber o-rings? Also, I had the air screws out (well, 3 of them, the other is frozen) and noticed little washers, springs and o-rings. How critical are all those parts? I figured the main thing was that the little pin on the end of the screw itself was okay. I lost one of the o-rings and washers, and one washer is split. The reason I ask is that I bought some carb rebuild kits off e-bay and wonder if I should make an effort to replace them or just leave them as is. The bike runs o.k., but has a little hesitation in the first second of starting from a dead stop. Also, it seems strange but when I am at full throttle, I seem to lose a little power, but if I back off the throttle, she pulls hard. Basically she pulls hardest at 3/4 throttle.

What do you guys think?

[daveo]

Re: Air screws and o-rings (and other carb questions)

The bike runs o.k., but has a little hesitation in the first second of starting from a dead stop. Also, it seems strange but when I am at full throttle, I seem to lose a little power, but if I back off the throttle, she pulls hard. Basically she pulls hardest at 3/4 throttle.

What do you guys think?

She should pull like stink all the way to redline, since winters coming and you have the kits, I'd just go ahead and rebuild them, probably make a world of difference judging from your description of performance. Not hard to do on a bench.

[Anonymous]

At least replace the washers and o-rings, just to be safe.

[Billy Ricks]

Replace the o-rings on the float needle valves too. They dry out and allow fuel to get past causing overfilled bowls and gas in the crankcase.

[earlfor]

Re: Air screws and o-rings (and other carb questions)

I would check to make sure the carbs are synchronized first and if that doesnt do it, I would suspect an air leak in the induction/intake system.

Earl

Also, it seems strange but when I am at full throttle, I seem to lose a little power, but if I back off the throttle, she pulls hard. Basically she pulls hardest at 3/4 throttle.

What do you guys think?

[Anonymous]

Leaning out

Jethro,
Sounds like the float level may be a little low and it's not getting the fuel it wants at full throttle. If, like Earl said, it has an air leak, I'd think it would show in more ranges than just top end :? . Float level effects all ranges including idle. Bob

[Jethro]

I checked the float level when the carbs were apart last, it was exactly to spec. I am also suspecting an ignition problem as well.

[argonsagas]

Since you know you have faulty parts in the carbs, why not do yourself a favour and replace them?

Then synch the carbs....this makes a HUGE difference in performance. Carbs that are improperly set up can easily cause the symptoms you describe.

[Jethro]

Yeah, I'm gonna have to buy a synch gauge and do that.